From Madrid to the End of the World: My Camino Journey
Day 0 – A Beginning in Madrid We began our journey in the heart of Madrid. I arrived and settled into LaNave, a modern, communal space buzzing with energy. That evening, our group met for the first time over a shared meal—strangers at first, but with the feeling that we’d soon become companions through something much bigger than ourselves.
Day 1 – To Astorga via Ávila We left the city behind, trading Madrid’s bustle for the spiritual silence of the Spanish countryside. Along the way, we stopped in the walled city of Ávila for lunch—its medieval ramparts standing tall, a symbol of fortitude. By evening, we arrived in Astorga, a historic town with a cathedral and a Gaudi palace to explore. The anticipation was for our pilgrimage was building.
Day 2 – Mountains, Iron Cross & Dairy Farm Nights From Astorga, the road ascended—slowly, steadily—toward Cruz de Ferro, the Iron Cross where pilgrims leave stones, prayers, and burdens. It was a powerful moment, the cross was shrouded in mist. We paused again for a traditional pilgrim lunch in the charming village of O Cebreiro, with its Celtic vibes and ancient buildings. That night, we stayed on a working dairy farm—A Reboleira—where the smell of earth grounded us. Life slowed, and the Camino deepened.
Day 3 – A Day of Preparation in Fonfría This was a sacred pause. A retreat day to reflect, prepare, and set intentions for what lay ahead. In Fonfría, surrounded by rolling hills and morning fog, we took time to centre ourselves. No walking today—just journalling, deep breaths, and quiet community. We decided what to leave behind and what to bring along with us – both mentally and physically! The pilgrimage began inward before it did outward.
Day 4 – First Steps on the Camino Francés We travelled to Samos, where we visited the majestic Benedictine monastery echoed with centuries of spiritual tradition. Here, we received our Pilgrim Credentials—our official start. Then came our first true steps on the Camino Francés. The walk from Samos to Sarria felt symbolic: new hiking shoes on old stones. That night, we stayed at Pensión Casa de Gallo, tired but happy our walk had commenced at last.
Day 5 – The 100km Marker and Portomarín With our scallop shells now tied to our packs, we felt officially “on Camino.” Today we crossed the famous 100km marker—an emotional milestone. The walk to Portomarín was long but filled with joy, rolling fields, and fellow pilgrims. We stayed at PortoHome Apartments, and it felt like we had crossed into a deeper part of the journey.
Day 6 – Roman Ruins and Rustic Charm Leaving Portomarín, we passed the ruins at Castromaior for a group check in —ancient echoes of a time before roads. We thought about the thousands of pilgrims who had walked these paths over hundreds of years. Our stop tonight was Rectoral de Lestedo, a beautifully restored rectory in the quiet of the countryside. We shared stories over dinner and felt the Camino’s rhythm settle into our bones.
Day 7 – Markets and Octopus in Palas de Rei A lively day! We passed through Palas de Rei, famous for its Galician octopus (pulpo) and stopped at a local market. It was a feast for the senses. The trail then brought us to O Leboreiro, a tiny hamlet rich in character. Our stay at Casa de los Somoza was charming and homey—perfect after a long day on foot.
Day 8 – Bridges and Rivers in Ribadiso Today’s walk was dotted with beauty—especially the medieval bridge at Furelos. We ended in Ribadiso, staying at Pensión Ribadiso, right beside the Río Iso. We all peeled off our boots immediately and soaked our feet in the cool water. Relief, and a deepening sense of camaraderie filled the evening air.
Day 9 – Thunder in Arzúa, Rain into A Rúa We walked through Arzúa and stopped for lunch in the countryside under darkening skies. The weather turned, the last 3km to A Rúa were soaked in torrential rain and thunder. Arriving at Alojamientos O Acivro, dripping and tired, we were reminded: the Camino isn’t always sunny—but it is always meaningful. The storm became part of the story.
Day 10 – Santiago at Last We walked together and climbed Monte do Gozo, the “Mount of Joy,” where a monument marks the final descent. In the distance we could finally see Santiago de Compostela. We entered the city and over the threshold into Praza do Obradoiro, the cathedral rising before us. We stood still, overwhelmed, joyful, grateful. That night, we celebrated with tapas and sangria—our group now bonded, changed, fulfilled.
Day 11 – To Fisterra, the End of the World As a final chapter, we travelled to Fisterra, where the land falls into sea at the 0km marker. The lighthouse stood against a backdrop of wind and waves—a powerful end to a transformative journey. Our last group dinner was at sunset, a celebration of every footstep, every story, every shared moment.
Reflections from the Camino This journey was never just about walking. It was about connection and remembering how to move through the world with intention. From the cobbled streets of Samos to the lighthouse at Fisterra, I completed 130kms of walking through beautiful Galicia with my fellow pereginas. The Camino gives you what you need - I returned lighter, clearer, and infinitely more grateful. Buen Camino.
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