The Orient Express

Neil Maslen on 07 November 2019
My Auntie Pauline is the jewel in our family’s crown. Direct, blunt and hilarious. When we lost my dear Uncle Mac a year ago we were all worried about how Pauline would manage by herself and without the love of her life. Family and friends have come together and kept her busy and during my phone calls with her it became very apparent she wanted to travel and see the places in the world she’s always wanted to go to. Now my Uncle Mac was a fine man, but he was that tight he would squeak when he walked. So, Pauline wanted to do the thing that he would never have paid for; the Orient Express. Before this, and to set the scene, I told Pauline I would take her on a cruise in 2020. However, in June she got the news the for the third time in her life she was going to have to battle cancer. My Aunt is an incredible woman who has a medical record longer than your arm and has always just got on with it. I always think that people of that generation are cut from a very different cloth in this respect. So, with this news, and with my Aunt’s bluntness that she’d need to do it quickly as she might not be here in 2020, I decided to arrange a cruise to Iceland at a weeks’ notice. It was my first cruise, and Pauline’s 15th! She loved showing the ‘travel expert’ the ropes and was in her element during the formal dinners and meeting the captain. Whilst on the cruise we had time to talk about lots of things. Family history, my Uncle Mac, my dad’s younger years and in true Aunty Pauline bluntness even her preferred funeral arrangements! However, the one thing she spoke about daily was her desire to travel on the Orient Express. This was not a new thing as I can recall her telling me about this amazing train, with the silver service, butlers and fine dining when I was a small child. But Pauline had hoped Mac was planning to surprise her for her 80th. Alas, Mac didn’t and Pauline had one last wish. During the summer Pauline’s treatment continued and reached a critical point. It was then I realised that the Orient Express stopped running in November and didn’t start again until April. This may have been too late so again at the last minute I put together a trip. Her face when she received the tickets and her reaction to going was perfect. Everybody in her home town of Westbury knew that she was going on by the end of the week. She even took her tickets and itinerary with her to her final treatment the week before going to show her surgeon! Pauline wanted to do it all in style. We took the train to London and stayed at the Grosvenor House the night before. We had chauffeurs arranged and got to Victoria in good time. The Belmond lounge was a hub of activity with people excitedly taking it all in with a glass of champagne as part of the check-in process. The first part of the journey is aboard the British Pullman. An absolute classic, Art eco style, train with all the grandeur you’d expect. The noise and smell when it pulled into Victoria took you back to black and white images of steam trains in the ‘olden days’ Pauline couldn’t wait, and I wheeled her out and straight to our cabin, Minerva. There to welcome us was our cabin manager, happily posing for photos, in his immaculate uniform. We took our seats and I think Pauline was quite over oared with the experience, smiling and staring and taking it all in. A welcome glass of fizz and a mid-morning four-course brunch set the tone as we raced out of London and through the lovely Kent countryside towards Folkestone. The journey was everything Pauline was expecting, and we’d not even got on board the main event. A transfer from the Pullman to a fleet of waiting coaches took us through the tunnel to Calais. As we pulled up, there she was, in all her regal glory. Pauline grabbed my arm and looked like a kid on Christmas morning! The staff we all there waiting for us and guided us to our carriage. The cabins were compact, fine for a husband and wife, but Aunt/Nephew combinations have probably been few and far between! A beautiful picture window framed the view and the small vanity unit and shelving made the best of the space. Very quickly our cabin manager greeted us with more champagne and a quick rundown of the cabin and our invitation to dinner. We had an hour or so to get ready and it was black tie, so everyone on board took advantage and dressed up. It was fantastic to see the dinner carriage and walk through with everyone so smartly turned out. It really gave the sense of the whole experience. The meal was superb. A lobster bisque, Dover sole and a cheese board that was the best I’ve ever seen. After dinner, we retired to the cabin which had been turned into our sleeping quarters whilst we were at dinner. A bunk bed yes, but the most comfortable bunk bed I’ve ever slept in. Amazing bedding, soft mattress and the lights of Paris passing in the distance. We both slept well and woke to the sight of the alps. A continental breakfast was served in the cabin. We then headed to the bar, which is one of the most stunning bars I’ve ever seen. Superbly decorated and in keeping with the ambience of the train and experience. The bar started to fill up as people mingled and shared stories as we climbed through the Alpswith snow now falling. Lunch was another culinary delight but Pauline was flagging so returned for an afternoon nap whilst I investigated the rest of the train and spoke to the staff, most of whom had been employed for over 10 years and all clearly loved their jobs. The train sped through the Italian lakes before reaching our destination, Venice. It had been an amazing couple of days. Pauline loved every single minute and it was worthwhile just to see her smile uncontrollably when she got on board! We arrived in Venice in the rain, and although the transfers were perfectly arranged and the hotel stunning, this was very much after the lord mayors show! We returned to Bristol the next morning after an early morning boat trip around the city and a very tired but incredibly pleased Aunty Pauline returned to her daily life after three days of living it up in the finest style. In my job I’ve often helped people achieve their trips of a lifetime but having a ringside seat for this was incredibly special. An iconic trip that is steeped in the annuals of travel and conjures instant images of grandeur. It met every expectation and more. The perfect trip for celebrating an anniversary or special occasion and one that you’d never forget.