Switzerland by Rail (Part 2)

Nigel Tarrant on 15 October 2023
On Tuesday we took the stroll up to the station at Tiefencastel to board the Bernina Express for the three and a half hour journey to Tirano in Italy. It’s a fantastic journey through some amazing scenery across the Alps. It is a UNESCO listed route. For me one of the best bits of the route is the Brusio spiral viaduct (see my video) which is an amazing piece of engineering. After this as one heads down toward Tirano there is some street running which is not unusual for Switzerland.

At Tirano we had just over an hour to take in the town and have a drink and/or a real Italian ice cream (there is a nice ice cream stall in a restaurant opposite the railway station).

Our return journey was on local trains which meant a change at Samedan and Pontresina, might sound a bit of a drag but actually it was quite nice to break the journey. It is the same tracks as the Bernina Express but if you sit on the opposite side to when you go down you get to see the scenery you might have missed.

The Wednesday was along the Albula Line to St Moritz. I first went to St Moritz in 1972 when I was just a lad and my memory was of having my first ever cheese and ham toastie. The next time was in 1983 and recall travelling up the funicular railway Chantrella Corviglia. We had to get out part of the way and continue on a cable car, but in 2006 it was railway all the way. But now one can go further up to Piz Nair in a cable car which gives some spectacular views over the mountains. There is also a restaurant which despite eating our packed lunch indulged in sausage and chips, albeit shared between us!

After taking in the views we made our way back down the cable car and funicular railway ready to meet the group for the train back to Tiefencastle.

Thursday was another free day and whilst some people explored locally we decided to head for Davos. I stayed in Davos in 1983 and wanted to see the hotel I stayed in, but I couldn’t remember the name of it or where it was! To get to Davos entailed getting the train to Filisur and then on to Davos. However, there was also a bus that departed from the Tiefencastel station to Filisur station and decided to take this for some different scenic views and we weren’t disappointed. Again the 50% off Swiss Travel Card being valid on the buses. A Filisur we caught the train which was one of the preserved carriages.

At the back of Davos station was the Jakobshorn cable car which we took to the top. This gave commanding views over Davos. There is a restaurant there as well and yes, we had sausage and chips, again!

We had a wander around the town and then made our way back to the railway station. We decided to take the bus direct back to Tiefencastel which was a nice ride giving some different views to the train journey. The bus stopped outside the hotel so we alighted there and joined some fellow group members for a drink before dinner.

On Friday we made our way to Chur where we changed on to the Arosa Line which winds its way through some spectacular scenery to the lakeside resort of Arosa, crossing the Langweiser Viaduct and arriving in Arosa alongside Obersee. There is an open rail car available on certain journeys. Another cable car takes you to the top of the mountain which also has a bear pit half way.

On the return journey we alighted the train at the northern end of Chur city centre, alighting at a street running station. This gave us the opportunity to walk down the centre, take in a coffee before meeting up at the main station for our journey back to Tiefencastel.

Its Saturday and we say farewell to the Albula & Julier Hotel at Tiefencastel and make our way to the station for the train to Chur. Here we join the Glacier Express which takes us through some breath taking scenery. Through the Rhine Gorge also know as the Swiss Grand Canyon. The route goes over the Oberalp Pass and besides lakes and glaciers before entering the nine mile long Furka Base Tunnel before arriving into Brig.

After sometime to explore Brig, we then set off towards Basel passing Lake Thun and Spiez.

Our hotel in Basel was just by the station, so not far to walk. At the hotel, all guests were given a ticket which gave free travel on the trams, entrance to the museums and a few other transactions. Whilst issued by the hotel it was provided by the municipality.

Unfortunately, we didn’t have time to explorer the city, but we did take a tram ride for two stops, just to say we have used our free tickets. Mid morning we departed Basel for Paris Gare de Lyon. On arrival we were transferred by coach to Gare du Nord where we boarded the Eurostar back to London St Pancras.

I hope you have enjoyed reading this blog, if you are interested in a Great Rail Journeys holiday let me know, I can book this for you. Alternatively, if you want to do something bespoke to your requirements let me know I can put together a package covering everything you want to do.