A Whistle-Stop Journey Through Sri Lanka
Stop 1: A Gentle Start at The Wallawwa What a wonderful start to our trip around Sri Lanka. Just 20 minutes from the airport, The Wallawwa is often used as a convenient airport hotel, but it’s worth so much more than just a quick stopover. The original building is a beautiful colonial manor house with 18 stylish rooms built around it. Spacious, calming, and thoughtfully designed, they each have a touch of indoor–outdoor living that immediately puts you in holiday mode. The spa is excellent value, with wonderful treatments . Daily yoga and meditation are complimentary, and the day rounds out with afternoon tea and free happy hour drinks. A perfectly restorative place before hitting the road for sightseeing.
Stop 2: Iconic Views at Water Garden Sigiriya Next, we drove about three hours to Water Garden Sigiriya, where the view of the iconic Lion Rock is simply unbeatable. Perfectly located for exploring Sri Lanka’s cultural triangle, it sits within reach of Dambulla, Minneriya National Park, Anuradhapura, and Polonnaruwa. The resort itself is spread across 38 acres of lakes and wetlands, which means sharing your stay with monitor lizards, monkeys, herons, peacocks, and more. Rooms are large and luxurious, with optional private pools, and there’s even an in-house naturalist for guided walks and night safaris by boat. Despite only staying one night, we packed in plenty: elephant spotting at Hurulu Eco Park (where we saw over 20 elephants in an hour!) and climbing the 1,217 steps of Sigiriya Rock. The next morning, a 4:15 am wake-up took us to Pidurangala Rock for sunrise—shorter and more adventurous than Sigiriya, with the reward of magical views across to Lion Rock itself.
Stop 3: Boutique Bliss at Kalkudah Beach House After our busy cultural adventures, a two-night beach break was heaven. Kalkudah Beach House had just softly opened during our stay, but it instantly won us over. This boutique gem has only five rooms across two villas, each with their own living spaces and a shared pool. Dining is flexible—private or communal—and the food was delicious. A stroll through coconut groves brings you to a stretch of pristine white sand beach, shared only with fishermen. We happily slowed down here, with just a trip to the market breaking up our lazy day. Exactly what we needed before going off-grid again.
Stop 4: A Digital Detox at Gal Oya Lodge Deep in the wild, Gal Oya Lodge gave us the rare gift of a digital detox—no WiFi, just nature. Wooden chalets with outdoor bathrooms immerse you in the surroundings. We squeezed in two experiences: a boat safari on the lake, spotting elephants on the shore and circling Bird Island at sunset, and a morning walk with a Veddha tribesman to learn about indigenous traditions. Other options include biking, cooking, jungle drives, treks, and bird walks. It’s firmly on my must-return list. From here, we embarked on our longest drive yet, pausing for lunch at the lovely Nine Skies tea bungalow in Ella—another boutique beauty with just five rooms and sweeping hill views.
Stop 5: Southern Serenity in Tangalla Our journey south brought us to Tangalla, a quieter alternative to the busier Galle area. Just over two hours from the international airport, it’s a perfect final beach stop with options for whale watching, paddle boarding, and nearby beach bars. Our group split between two boutique hotels: The Last House, designed by Geoffrey Bawa, with just five unique rooms and a garden leading to the beach. Guests must be over 10 years old. Coco Tangalla, a more affordable but equally charming stay with six cozy rooms and a pool overlooking the ocean. Both properties let you fall asleep to the sound of waves—perfect for a coastal escape.
Stop 6: Along the Coast to Galle For once, we had a shorter drive along the coast towards Galle. En route, we peeked into KK Beach before stopping at Why House for a delicious lunch. A bike ride through villages and paddy fields was cut short by a rain shower, but after a week of 30°C heat, it felt refreshing! That night we stayed at Kahanda Kanda, a gorgeous property of private suites (most with their own pools) and even a reconstructed Javanese honeymoon bungalow. The next morning, we explored Koggala Lake by boat, stopping at a cinnamon farm where, of course, we stocked up on cinnamon sticks and powder.
Stop 7: Historic Galle Fort From the lake, we headed into Galle town, first visiting The Sun House, a colonial merchant’s home turned boutique hotel, before checking into Fort Bazaar, a restored 17th-century townhouse in the heart of Galle Fort. Here we finally had time to shop! We also took a guided walking tour of the UNESCO site, enjoying its charming streets and historic landmarks. With a free morning, I even squeezed in some pool time before moving on.
Stop 8: Teardrop Hotel Gems Our journey continued with more of the Teardrop Hotels collection, starting with Kumu Beach, a chic coastal retreat with just 10 rooms and a stunning pool. One of my fellow travelers was already planning her wedding here! We then visited Lunuganga, Geoffrey Bawa’s own country estate. Each room is unique, dotted across the expansive gardens filled with eclectic furniture and character.
Stop 9: Villa Bentota & Glenross Living Our penultimate stop was Villa Bentota, Sri Lanka’s very first boutique hotel. I loved its quirky design and the train line that runs through the gardens on its way to the beach. Finally, we reached Glenross Living, a luxury wellness retreat surrounded by 98 acres of tea, rubber, and cinnamon plantations. Rooms are split between a colonial main house and modern villas with private pools. Wellness activities include yoga, spa treatments, hiking, and even a demonstration of the Sri Lankan martial art Angampora. It was the perfect final stop, where I had one last dip in my pool and a leisurely breakfast before heading to the airport.
Final Thoughts Sri Lanka completely stole my heart. From cultural treasures and wild safaris to boutique hotels and serene beaches, it’s a country that offers so much in such a compact space. This was only a whistle-stop first visit, but I already know I’ll be back—and next time, for longer!
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