Iceland

When I realised I had missed the deadline for my son’s school trip to Iceland I decided that we would all go. The prospect of experiencing the ‘land of fire and ice’ combined with fulfilling a long held ambition to see the Northern Lights was too tempting! Flying with Iceland Air was a pleasure. The three hour flying time is just long enough to watch a movie. I checked us in online, the plane was new and comfortable and the crew were delightful. My first impression of Reykjavik was how beautiful it is on Faxafloi Bay with the majestic Mount Esja rising in the background, and how uncrowded. The population of Iceland is around 326,000, just over a third of whom live in Reykjavik. The country covers an area of 103,000 square kilometres averaging just three people per kilometre compared to around 240 in the UK. It feels like a quiet Sunday afternoon every day! Reykjavik means “smoky bay” named by the Viking explorer Ingolfur Anarson who saw steam rising from the geysers and geothermal springs which now heat the city’s water. Iceland is a young country. It was formed around 24 million years ago by lava welling up from rifts along the Mid-Atlantic Ridge which separates the North American tectonic plate from the Eurasian Plate in the North Atlantic. The plates are separating at around 2.5cm a year so Iceland is growing! We stayed at the Best Western Reykjavik, a cosy modern hotel a 10 minute walk from the centre of town and a great base for seeing the sights. Harry’s restaurant just along from the hotel is excellent. The Golden Circle comprises Iceland’s most popular sights; the first we saw was the picturesque Gullfoss Waterfall or Golden Falls. My eldest son was not impressed, declaring it “not as good as Victoria” (kids!) so we did a quick photo stop in icy winds. The oldest and most impressive geyser, rather unimaginatively named “Geysir,” doesn’t erupt very often, geologists think it will take an earthquake to stir it from its slumber. Fortunately, smaller “Strokkur” nearby spouts every 15 minutes, it was great fun trying to capture it on camera! The area is surrounded by about 30 pools, some are literally boiling and would burn the skin from your hand. Finally, we travelled to Thingvellir National Park, site of the Althing, Iceland’s first national parliament founded in 930. The plain where the Althing began is also an area of geothermal activity and it is possible to walk along the fissures created by the movement of the tectonic plates. It is an eerie and evocative place. Thousands of Icelandic people gathered here to witness their parliament create laws and hand out punishments. Criminals were hung on the high rocks or drowned. Thingvellir is on the northern shore of Lake Pingvallavatn, the country’s largest natural lake and the Silfra fissure is popular for some unique snorkelling and diving. Hallgrimskirkja Church is the tallest building in Iceland and offers great views across the city. It is named after a famous Icelandic poet, composer and clergyman and its unusual structure took over 30 years to build. The city is compact and easily explored on foot. The National Museum is the best place to learn more about Icelandic folklore, culture and history and we enjoyed the art exhibitions in the National Gallery. Whale watching is another popular attraction. The Red Rock Cinema Volcano Show is an interesting insight into the geology of Iceland. A volcano erupting in Iceland in 1783 caused worldwide devastation and sparked the French Revolution. My sons remembered the disruption to flights in 2010 caused by the eruption of Eyjafjallajökul, thankfully not quite on the same scale. We enjoyed swimming at Laugardalur, a geothermal heated outdoor pool with hot tubs where Icelanders love to socialise. I preferred the Blue Lagoon with its contemporary spa and hot steaming aqua-blue pools where you can smear yourself with silica and mineral mud for silky smooth skin! Our final excursion was in a monster truck in a last-night bid to see the elusive Northern Lights. We could not have timed it better; the clouds cleared and we were treated to a magical experience I will never forget – high on a snowy glacier with the stars sparkling like diamonds in a black velvet sky and the Northern Lights finally strutting their stuff across the skies in a glorious display. I loved Iceland – contact me for more details and how to get the best from your stay!