On Safari in Botswana and Bazaruto Island Beach stay

Julie Welfare on 16 October 2018
Travelling overland from Victoria Falls to Chobe Game Lodge in Botswana is an interesting experience. We had a series of different guides and travelled by road and a ferry, that resembled an over-sized tin bath, across the river at Kazungula where 4 countries meet; Zambia, Botswana, Namibia and Zimbabwe. It is a chaotic place as the official ferries can take only 2 heavy trucks at a time and there are queues of truckers patiently waiting for their turn which can take days or even weeks. It is also a building site. A bridge was proposed in 2007 and latest estimates suggest it might be finished by 2021. Chobe Game Lodge is compact and pretty, more like a hotel than a traditional game lodge. It is the only permanent safari lodge within the famous Chobe National Park. Uniquely, the safari guides are all women who run the activities with military precision via a huge whiteboard in the reception area. The routes through the National Park are tightly controlled. Mid-morning and evening cruises on the Chobe River are an alternative option to a game drive in vehicles. It is a haven for bird watchers with over 450 species in the Chobe region. On an evening game drive our guide was surprised to come across a huge sleepy owl sitting in the middle of one of the many dirt tracks. The park is known for its large population of elephants and the tables were turned when one came rather uncomfortably close to our vehicle to examine us! We particularly enjoyed the antics of the baboons on the banks of the Chobe river and a pride of handsome lions basking luxuriantly in the sunshine. Our next stop was Camp Okavango on remote Nxaraga Island in the heart of the Okavango Delta. Our little safari plane landed on the airstrip adjacent to the Camp as an inquisitive elephant walked alongside as if to welcome us. Botswana’s magnificent Okavango Delta is a maze of lagoons, lakes and hidden channels covering an area of 16,000 square kilometres in flood and shrinking to less than 9,000 square kilometres in the dry season. The bird watching is outstanding and fishing for bream and tiger fish is offered in season. After settling into our authentic spacious safari suite our first included activity was in a traditional canoe called a mokoro. A young guide propelled us gently through the mass of reeds and channels where we saw hippos, crocodiles and lots of bird life. Our peace was shattered when to my horror a large hippo suddenly rose up out of the water right next to me and I envisaged us being tipped out of the canoe at his mercy! Fortunately, our young guide wasn’t in the slightest bit perturbed and carried on punting along murmuring soothing words to calm our jangling nerves. It is said that the hippo is the deadliest animal to encounter so I wasn’t quite as relaxed next time we went out. Luckily our future outings were in a motor boat which offered a lot more protection, and speed to escape if necessary. Walking safaris are very popular in the Okavango Delta and next morning we set off with a disconcertingly elderly guide armed only with a large stick. Guides do not carry guns in Botswana using their intuition and skills to avoid confrontation. To my amazement our guide announced that we would be tracking a lioness who had been sighted in the area. It wasn’t long before we heard her distinctive loud rumbling and eventually we were able to see her from a safe distance. It was an exhilarating experience! For the rest of our stay our game viewing was a mix of boat trips and walking safaris on different islands. I never tired of seeing versions of Pumbaa trotting along, their little tails held aloft as they hurried about their business looking ever-important. The large crocodiles we saw basking on the river banks were impressive showing off their formidable teeth in a menacing grin. Giraffe, impala, roebuck, baboons, elephant and huge numbers of birds all made an appearance and we swopped stories with fellow guests in the evening over delicious dinners and drinks around the fire pits. All too soon it was time to leave Camp O and fly via Maun and Johannesburg to Vilanculos in Mozambique where we could catch a speedboat to beautiful Bazaruto Island. We were staying at the Anantara Bazaruto Island Resort and Spa to enjoy some beach time after getting up at 5.30am every day for morning game viewing. As we sped over the crystal-clear turquoise sea we could see dolphins frolicking in the distance and caught a glimpse of what looked like a dugong, but it was too quick to be certain. A small crowd had gathered on the long golden sandy beach and drawing closer we realised that it was a colourful welcome reception of smiling people in traditional dress all playing music, singing and dancing for our arrival! At 37 kilometres long and up to 7 kilometres wide Bazaruto is the largest island in the protected Bazaruto Archipelago which was declared a National Park in 1971. It is an unspoilt tropical island paradise in which guests can totally relax and immerse themselves. The rustic natural beauty of Bazaruto and the genuine kindness of the staff make it quite unique. The service is exceptional and the food delicious. I felt as though the staff were anticipating our every wish. When my son wanted to watch the World Cup football our entire table was transported across the dining room so that he could sit directly in front of the TV, much to his delight! There are a surprising number of activities and excursions available including water sports, riding from the hotel’s own stables, bird watching, fishing, visits to nearby islands, excellent diving and much more. The enormous sand dunes on the island provide great dune boarding. Another highlight is visiting the local community supported by the hotel and where the children are grateful for gifts of stationery and books. My only consolation when leaving Bazaruto island was that we had one last night in Johannesburg at the luxurious Michelangelo Hotel, a member of the prestigious Leading Hotels of the World group. There we enjoyed a special gourmet dinner with wine pairings overlooking Nelson Mandela Square, a precious mother and son evening to end a truly wonderful holiday of a lifetime! I'd be delighted to help you arrange your very own bespoke African holiday of a lifetime. Contact me now for an informal chat.