On Safari in South Africa

Julie Welfare on 15 August 2017
When I walked through the lobby and stepped out into the bright sunshine at Lion Sands River Lodge, a private game reserve bordering the Kruger National Park, I knew I had arrived at a very special place. It was like stepping onto a very glamourous film set. On the wooden deck stretching ahead of me was a long white linen covered table set for lunch overlooking the dry river bed where at any moment lions, elephants or even leopards might appear. The scene was breathtakingly beautiful of a kind I’d seen in glossy luxury travel brochures. The Lodge itself was stunning and modern. Already I never wanted to leave! We were introduced to David who would be looking after us and after a mouth-wateringly delicious lunch it was time for our first game drive. Anthony our ranger and Kruger our appropriately named tracker became our new best friends for the next few days and we clambered up onto our tiered open top safari vehicle with great anticipation and excitement. Anthony had an encyclopaedic knowledge of all things African bush from the tiniest insect to the mightiest of beasts and Kruger possessed an almost supernatural ability to read seemingly obscure marks in the sand and spot the most expertly camouflaged game at several hundred yards. I found myself craving more information avidly scanning the bush on either side for glimpses of game. I could see how this might become an addiction! Evening game drives included a stop for sundowners and on our first evening we stopped at the wildly romantic Chalkley’s Tree House named after Guy Aubrey Chalkley who once set up his camp in a majestic old Leadwood tree to escape the predators below. On top of the wooden platform was an inviting Four-poster bed with crisp white linen and billowing net curtains along with a selection of drinks and exquisite canapes and panoramic views of the bush in all directions. Honeymooners and other braver souls than I choose to spend the night here alone. Another evening we pulled up in the middle of an airstrip as night fell and tumbled out of the jeep feeling more than a little exposed in the pitch blackness. As we sipped our sundowners a Head ranger and astrologer talked us through the emerging stars using a powerful telescope through which we could see Saturn’s rings and Jupiter. Over the next few days we saw all the Big 5; Elephant, Buffalo, Rhinos, Lions and finally, on our very last morning game drive, the elusive Leopard! A walking safari with our ranger proved unexpectedly eventful when we came across a rhino and had to make a rapid retreat. Memorable moments include feeling dwarfed by incredibly tall elegant giraffes, being surrounded by elephants and enchanted by a baby elephant playing football with a rock directly in front of us and having a courting lion and lioness walking shoulder to shoulder within 2 feet of our Land rover as dusk fell. Our journey took us to Hazyview where we experienced ziplining through the South African bush and a thrilling helicopter trip over the MacMac Falls. We followed the Panorama Route to the historic town of Graskop dating back to 1843 and the gold rush, the gateway to some of South Africa’s most spectacular natural wonders the Three Rondavels, Blyde River Canyon, God’s Window, numerous waterfalls, the Pinnacle and Bourke’s Luck Potholes. At Misty Mountain in Long Tom Pass the panoramic views over the valley below and a hair-raising toboggan run down the mountain left our pulses racing. Finally we rounded off our safari experience at the exclusive Garonga Safari Camp in the 22,000 hectare Makalali Conservancy West of the Kruger National Park where my only regret was not having time to relax in the hand-beaten copper bath in my luxurious Hambleden Suite. Safaris differ considerably from one country to another and your experience is dependent on the time of year you travel. I can create your personal Itinerary to include many different elements to complement your Safari whether it be Cape Town, the Winelands, the Garden Route, the Battlefields of KwaZulu Natal or a stunning white sand beach in Mauritius, Zanzibar or the Maldives. For further advice and to book your personal bespoke safari holiday contact me now - I look forward to hearing from you very soon!