Summer break in the Eternal City

A shimmering swimming pool set in beautiful Italianate gardens is not something you would necessarily expect to find on a city break to Rome but I can highly recommend it for a decadent touch of luxury if travelling during the hot summer months. The Gran Melia Roma Villa Agrippina once belonged to Emperor Nero’s mother. Upon arrival, my son and I were immediately invited to enjoy a welcome glass of champagne by the pool. Cool fragrant towels and a warm welcome swiftly followed, and I knew it was my kind of hotel. The only problem was tearing ourselves away from the plush sun loungers around the pool! In an elevated spot across from the Vatican City and a gentle stroll along the River Tiber from my favourite neighbourhood of Trastevere, our location was perfect. We had views of the Castel St Angelo and the Ponte Principe Amedeo Savoia Aosta, a great bridge from which to take photos of the sunset over the Vatican and the elaborate Ponte Vittorio Emanuele II. Our trip was a pre-university treat for my son who chose our Itinerary. The Foro Italico is a large sports complex in the North of the City. It was built under Mussolini and is a prime example of Italian Fascist architecture with a large obelisk to honour Mussolini. Originally built to attract the 1944 Olympic Games which were cancelled due to the war, it is home to football teams Lazio and Roma. There are tennis courts, swimming pools, a large arena and the Olympic Stadium, rebuilt in 1990 to house 70,000 spectators, and the much smaller Stadio Dei Marmi, surrounded by 60 marble statues of athletes. The MAXXI National Museum of Contemporary Art and Architecture was designed by Zaha Hadid and won the Stirling Prize from the Royal Institute of British Architects in 2010. Zaha wanted to create a fluid building with no firm distinction between the interior and exterior. There were to be five buildings but only one has been built on the site of former military barracks in the Flaminio district. The Auditorium by Italian architect Renzo Piano is nearby too. No visit to Rome is complete without a visit to the iconic Coliseum. The standard ticket also includes admission to the Forum and Palatine Hill. To avoid the queues and heat of the day, it’s best to go either at 8.30am or a couple of hours before closing time which is dependent on the sunset. It is now possible to book access to the upper terraces where the poorest plebeians would have been seated. A novel way to visit is at night, especially if there is a clear moon. Additional areas are accessible, and it would certainly be atmospheric! Even in the bright sunlight, I could almost hear the roar of the baying crowds and smell the blood and sweat. The Forum is fascinating, and the sense of history is overwhelming. Once the centre of the Mediterranean World, it is now a pile of ruins. Combined with the Palatine Hill, there is an awful lot to take in and you need several hours and comfortable walking shoes to do it all justice. The Circus Maximus used for games and chariot racing is now little more than an open space but in recent years, it has been used a venue for rock concerts by Genesis and the Rolling Stones. The road running parallel has some charming cafes for an aperitivo and a restorative snack. It is essential to throw a few coins in the famous Trevi Fountain, said to guarantee your return. If you’re prepared to wriggle your way through the crowds and don’t mind a damp bottom as you perch on the fountain edge, you can just about get a decent selfie. The famous Spanish Steps are a short walk away and it’s worth climbing to the top to visit the pretty Trinita dei Monti church for its works of art and superb views. Trastevere is the old artisan area with cobbled streets, narrow alleyways and a plethora of trattoria-style restaurants. It is quiet and sophisticated by day, a little more raucous by night but perfect at any time for delicious reasonably priced food and wine! The area around the Vatican City is popular with cruise ship visitors and expensive whilst the parkland of the Villa Borghese is ideal for a picnic. Fresh water fountains are dotted around the city so it’s a good idea to take a reusable water bottle. Gelato and delicious snacks are of course everywhere, and everyone has their own recommendations for the best! On the first Sunday of every month government-managed monuments, museums and gardens are free to the public but bear in mind that 30,000 visitors can descend on the Coliseum on that one day! Transport links in Italy are good and Rome can easily be combined with other cities to create a multi -centre Italian escapade. I would love to help create your very own Italian adventure so please don't hesitate to get in touch!