Time out in Trinidad and Tobago
When I was offered the chance to visit Trinidad and Tobago I simply couldn’t refuse. I love the Caribbean and have visited many of the islands.
We flew out to Trinidad via St Lucia and took a winding road journey up into the northern Mountain Range to stay at the Asa Wright Nature Centre. Asa Wright is a non-profit making organisation recognised as one of the finest eco-lodges in the world. 125 species of bird have been recorded along with numerous butterflies and mammals. It is a privilege to have stayed there and I would recommend it to anyone with an interest in wildlife. The cuisine is all local and delicious, and the property has a lovely Colonial feel to it. Guests gather around the bar on the veranda in the evenings to swap stories.The rooms are basic but clean and comfortable.
In complete contrast, the next morning, we visited the modern shiny Angostura Distillery in Trinidad before going back to nature with a relaxing boat trip on the Caroni Swamp to spot the national emblem the Scarlet Ibis. The night was spent at the Trinidad Hilton which had a welcoming resort-style atmosphere. We were fascinated by accounts of Barack Obama’s visit and past guests such as the late Michael Jackson.
Next day, we headed up the North West coast of Trinidad to Maracas Bay, a famous beach popular with locals where we sampled the local dish known as Shark and Bake – delicious! Our time in Trinidad was drawing to an end but we just had time to stop off at the unique Pax Guest House adjacent to the Mount St Benedict Monastery. Famous names such as Sir David Attenborough and Bill Oddie have stayed here. It is like something from a bygone era but utterly charming and comfortable. There are 600 acres of forest boasting over 140 species of bird, 17 species of mammals and countless butterflies, insects and plants.
Soon we were on a flight to Tobago. Another unique natural phenomenon awaited us at the lovely Turtle Beach - one of the nesting grounds of the giant leatherback turtle. To my delight we were here at the right time. The main laying season is May to August. It’s possible to ask the hotel to wake you in the middle of the night if there are any sightings. It seemed surreal when I received a loud knock on my bedroom door at around 2.30am but so worth it to see a giant leatherback busy making her nest and some tiny hatchlings.
The Island Girl catamaran gave us an opportunity to indulge in some much needed sun bathing and snorkelling. Trinidad and Tobago is excellent for snorkelling and diving. There are over 300 different species of coral including the largest brain coral in the Caribbean, a multitude of fish and not just ship wrecks but also plane wrecks from the First World War!
Sunday School is the weekly party in the fishing village of Buccoo. The evening starts with steel pans then to socca, hip hop and R&B lasting into the early hours.
During the next few days we visited hotels of various grades. Blue Waters was a personal favourite for its romantic location overlooking Goat Island, with Ian Fleming’s former house looking back at us and the exotically named Bird of Paradise island in the background. The hotel was a haunt of Hollywood stars in the 1940s and 50s.
Coco Reef is the closest equivalent to a four-five star hotel on the island confirmed by the presence of a well-known footballer during our stay. We visited an interesting cocoa plantation and had a delicious lobster lunch at Jemma’s Tree House - a must-do!
Our final destination was my favourite on the island – the rock star hideaway of Stone Haven Villas. The list of A-list guests is extensive. The villas are luxurious, each with a personal housekeeper and superb views.
A four wheel drive excursion enabled us to go into the interior of the island to see tucked away communities where the local school children greeted us with great enthusiasm, much to our delight!
Trinidad and Tobago are islands of contrasts – the sprawling mass of the modern city of Trinidad contrasting with the rustic small island feel of Tobago yet both boast an abundance of rich and colourful flora and fauna in the most stunning of settings. The warmth and relaxed attitude of the locals all makes for a heady mix which I can’t wait to return to.