28 July 2022

In May 2022 I had the opportunity to spend a day in the township of Khayelitsha, just outside Cape Town. The name is Xhosa for 'New Home'. It is reputed to be the largest and fastest-growing township in South Africa. Khayelitsha is located on the Cape flats. A small group of travel agents was being shown around by Juma Mkwela from Juma Art Tours and I have to admit that a number of pre-conceived ideas about townships and township life went out the window that day. The general perception of townships in Europe is probably one of bleak shacks, poverty and lack of education but we were soon to learn that township life is not exactly like the perceptions the tourists tend to have. Khayelitsha is not 'just' a township, this is a city in itself! With close to 4 million inhabitants, everything needed for daily life is there, from kindergarten, primary school and secondary education (52 schools in total), through clinics and a hospital to shops. The township has a very young population, with only 7% over 50 years of age. Although many residents still live in 'informal dwellings', there are brick 2-bedroom houses in the township and also a small but growing middle class population. The township has a good transport infrastructure and the MyCiti bus system, Golden Arrow bus and various trains serve the location on a regular basis and no fewer than 6 train stations. There are three provincial government clinics, numerous municipal clinics and a 300-bed district hospital. One of the greatest surprises was the Spade, a boutique hotel and spa, with a small swimming pool, a treatment room for spa treatments and a gym. All rooms are tastefully furnished, and the premises are adorned with modern art. The restaurant serves delicious meals, which we were treated to as well, and the service was impeccable. The owner, Annette Skaap, has turned this into a little gem that deserves to be more widely known and appreciated. The individual homes, whilst small and largely out of corrugated iron, are painted with art to make the entire place a friendlier looking environment and there are opportunities for social tourism as volunteers in numerous projects around Khayelitsha, like community gardening, which our group took part in, or the painting of more buildings to give the place a lighter and friendlier feel. After lunch and a look around the hotel, we were treated to a performance by the gospel choir Isibane-se-Afrika. They sell some hand-made curios in their small shop to support the choir and are only too happy to treat visitors to a performance of song and dance. They show huge enthusiasm and some of our group had an opportunity to join in the celebration of music and dance. A very interesting day, which added much to our education.

28 July 2022

On a recent educational with Cape Town Tourism, we were eased into the programme with a walking tour around Woodstock, a suburb of the city. On display were various murals, all painted by the locals to pretty-up their otherwise somewhat bleak-looking environment. A lot of the art was skilfully painted, and we were guided around the area by one of the artists, Juma Mkwela. Juma was born in Malawi, raised in Zimbabwe and now lives in Khayelitsha. He is an artist with a bright smile and a passion for his various communities. After fleeing political, social and economic turmoil, he moved to South Africa in hopes of a better future. While in South Africa, Juma recognized that many xenophobic actions stem from a lack of education and understanding of other cultures. Combining his love for art and craft, along with his new desire to educate, Juma set out to share his own interests by teaching the community through art leadership and development programs. He believes in the potential and the positive impact that street art can have in the township communities, such as his own home in Khayelitsha. Street art allows artists to tell their story to a larger audience in a more permanent space. In addition, street art creates a beautiful space within the communities that makes residents eager to get their spaces painted as well. Juma set up his own company: Juma Art Tours, an organisation that offers various immersive experiences in townships and areas often overlooked by tourists with the aim to create a better understanding of the area visited for those who visit. Woodstock also boasts a number of artisan shops and an art gallery so there is plenty to see and do. After our art tour, we were treated to an altogether different experience; craft gin tasting. Needless to say, all participants left the venue in high spirits after an enjoyable hour of teambuilding and gin tasting. Juma Art Tours can customise various tours for those interested in visiting a less well-known area of Cape Town.

16 June 2022

During a recent educational to beautiful Cape Town, we were treated to an experience of a different kind: A journey from the V&A Waterfront up Chapman's Peak in a vintage sidecar. Owner Tim founded the company in 2005 and his 7-year-old rescue dog Brody (the company mascot) often accompanies him in his own little seat in the tandem sidecar bucket, complete with bandana and goggles. The fleet of 35 sidecars are decommissioned military bikes originally used by the Peoples Liberation Army of China between the early 1950's and mid-1970's. They are known as cj750's and are based on the old German BMW R71 used extensively during from World War II. All sidecars have been fully refurbished & modified to suit South African Road traffic requirements. Available are: conventional sidecars (Driver plus 2 passengers, one on pillion seat behind driver plus 1 seated in the sidecar) as well as tandem sidecars (Driver plus 3 passengers, one on pillion seat behind driver plus 2 passengers in the tandem sidecar bucket). Vintage sidecars offer a range of options from 2-hour short drives to half-day and full-day tours to different destinations. We had an absolute blast, the drivers picked us up from the lunch venue, sorted us out with retro leather jackets, bandanas, goggles and crash helmets and gave us the option to either sit in the sidecar or ride pillion. I chose the sidecar because I wanted to take photographs. Our drivers weaved through traffic with ease, through narrow one-way streets and along the coast with spectacular views and I was so glad that I had chosen the sidecar and was able to take plenty of pictures. We had two photo-stops at beauty spots along the coast and all too soon we were driven back to our hotel for the evening programme. It was an excursion that we will not forget anytime soon, and if I get the chance, I will most certainly book another ride in a vintage sidecar when I am in Cape Town in future.

31 May 2010

A very brief visit to Chobe National Park resulted in some amazing wildlife sightings. Our small group spent one night at the boutique Ngoma Safari Lodge, perched on the edge of a plateau, and offering unobstructed views over the floodplains of the Chobe River. The lodge is easily accessible, yet completely private and offers six double and two triple luxury river-facing thatched suites. The lodge is made from local materials and designed to blend into the surrounding environment. The central guest area holds the reception, curio shop, restaurant and bar, a sundeck, swimming pool and viewing platform and the guest suites are a short walk away from the main entrance. Every suite is completely glass-fronted, providing a 180-degree view over the flood plains and into the distance. The suites are spaced out and screened by natural vegetation, offering the guests privacy and a private deck with a small plunge pool and outdoor shower. Inside, an en-suite bathroom with double washbasin, shower and toilet rounds off the eco-friendly accommodation offering. Fans, mini-safe, electric lamps, minibar, and tea/coffee making facilities are all there. A range of activities are available for guests, ranging from game drives, and walking safaris, to night drives, mokoro excursions and cultural exchange programmes where guests visit a nearby village and connect with the local culture. The lodge also has a boma across the car park, where festive barbecue dinners are held, with song and dance performances. There is limited Wi-Fi connectivity in the main restaurant / bar area. Chobe National Park is Botswana’s most diverse park in biological terms, it is classic big game country where elephants and herds of buffalo roam and is known as the ‘Land of the Giants’. It is also famous for wandering leopards, normally an elusive species, as we found out during an afternoon game drive. Chobe is not fenced, which allows animals to roam freely and as a result, they can cover huge distances. But for bird lovers, Chobe is a great destination too. Water birds, migrating birds and raptors nest close to the river. Forests of mopane trees, woodlands and sandy riverbanks are all part of the diverse ecosystem, which makes up Chobe National Park. The most accessible part of the National Park is the riverfront, where you will also find the largest concentration of wildlife as they all come for a drink or a dip at some point during the day. Spectacular wildlife sightings are around every corner and every time of day will provide a different opportunity to enjoy the African wildlife. Chobe feels like true wilderness. Buffalo, Elephants, Leopard, Impala, Mongoose, Lions, Zebra, Baboons, Wildebeest, Giraffe, Hippo, and a wide variety of birdlife are but a few of the species a keen photographer will have the opportunity to encounter during a trip to Chobe National Park. Whether you stay for one night or make it a longer experience, you will have a fantastic time.

31 May 2010

One of my most memorable trips must be the 6-day trip to the Okavango Delta, the Kalahari, and Chobe in Botswana followed by Victoria Falls in Zimbabwe. We spend 2 nights each in the Delta and the Kalahari, followed by one night in Chobe and one night in Victoria Falls. Have you ever wanted to get up close and personal with wildlife and nature, in spectacular surroundings with great food and wine and comfortable accommodation that left nothing to be desired? Have you ever wanted to feel like you were in the film 'Out of Africa'? Botswana is one of the destinations that can tick all the boxes. From the moment you fly into the Delta on a light aircraft that accommodates a maximum of 12 passengers, you feel in a different world. In a way, you are. Botswana is not an inexpensive destination, distances are vast and especially in the Delta, camps are mainly accessible by light aircraft taking you to the private landing strip from where you are transferred to camp on a game viewer, your first game drive starts the moment you step off the plane. But it is so worth it, an amazing variety of wildlife and birdlife awaits. This has to be at the top of every nature-lover's bucket list. First up, we spent two nights at Duke's East, an intimate hideaway in one of Africa's remote wildernesses on a channel in the northern Okavango Delta. The camp is decorated in vintage safari style with plush fabrics, Persian rugs and hand-carved four-poster beds. Meals are enjoyed under the shade of the giant ebony trees or in the communal dining tent. Grab a drink from the well-stocked drinks cabinet or have your favourite made by one of the staff and settle into the small lounge furnished with intricately carved tables and antique oriental rugs. In the tea tent (no shoes here) staff serve a lovely afternoon tea each day. Meals are a lavish affair of crystal glasses and antique silverware, with three-course dinners that celebrate the tradition of honouring guests with fine food and wine in the African bush. (Yes, it really feels like 'Out of Africa'). Due to its size, this camp is ideal for small groups or those looking for a more intimate safari affair. It is in one of the most beautiful concessions in the Delta and offers glorious views over a flood plain and seasonal lagoon. Wi-Fi is available in the main tent. You’ll discover four spacious safari suites (1 double, 2 twins and 1 family unit with a private plunge pool) under canvas tents on raised wooden decks set beneath a canopy of ebony and leadwood trees, nicely spaced out so that even in the hot afternoon sun, there is enough air circulation that the heat is not stifling. Each tent has a spacious en-suite bathroom with brass fittings and bespoke amenities, an outdoor shower as well as a private viewing deck. You'll find mahogany sideboards filled with African memorabilia and a butler tray with a steaming pot of filter coffee, hot chocolate or a choice of tea is delivered to your suite in the morning. It’s a seamless blend of yesteryear charm and deep respect for the surrounding natural ecosystems. There is a swimming pool pavilion and spa treatments are available at additional cost. A complimentary laundry service is available although please note that due to local custom undergarments cannot be laundered, for this washing powder is provided in each suite. Children from 6 years of age are welcome at Duke's East. Exceptional safari guides know this World Heritage site intimately and go out of their way to ensure guests have an amazing safari experience. Game drives, mokoro excursions, fishing, and sunset boat trips are all available for the guest. Scenic helicopter flights and rock art visits can also be booked at additional cost. Duke’s East is open year-round, with each season offering its own unique character and opportunities for adventure in the Okavango Delta. The next two nights were spent at Deception Valley in the Kalahari, another amazing property with plenty of wildlife viewing from the deck. This magical place in the vast Kalahari has to be experienced. The main lodge holds the lounge, bar and dining areas, all decorated in the warm Kalahari colours. The sundeck offers plenty of opportunity to view game and birdlife that come to the nearby waterhole for a drink. A swimming pool close to the main area offers an opportunity for a refreshing dip when the afternoon sun gets too hot. There is also a curio shop. Set back from the main lodge, all accommodation units are spaced out for privacy, connected by a boardwalk, which leads back to the main lodge. The boardwalk is a perfect way to ensure that guests are easily able to get to their accommodation, whether they have mobility issues or not. The same boardwalk concept is a feature at the main lodge where the game viewers leave for game drives, there are two bays surrounded by boardwalks to facilitate easy access to the vehicles. 6 chalets and 2 family units with interconnecting rooms can accommodate a maximum of 16 guests at a time, so the camp is never crowded. Luxury twin-bedded rooms with Victorian-style en-suite bathrooms, an outside shower and a private viewing deck offer restful accommodation. The family units have a private plunge pool as well. You wake up to birdsong in the morning and might even catch a peek of the local wildlife whilst you are still getting ready for the day. Our amazing guide Knowledge is well-named, he was extremely knowledgeable on all things wildlife and Kalahari, and nothing was too much trouble to ensure the guests had a great safari experience. Both the Okavango Delta and the Kalahari -although very different from each other- are well worth a visit and can easily be combined to an unforgettable experience in one of the unspoilt regions of Southern Africa. If you are thinking of taking a trip into the wilds of Botswana, do not hesitate to get in touch.