Hakone – Hot Springs, Ropeways, and a Peek at Mount Fuji
Tickets were already pre-booked and printed (a little detail that makes travel so much smoother — and something I always arrange for my clients). Tokyo’s train stations are vast, busy, and at times overwhelming, so having everything organised in advance was invaluable.
Arriving in the Mountains
Hakone sits high up in the mountains, around 800 metres above sea level, and is known as one of Japan’s most scenic spots. Unfortunately for us, we were greeted by drizzle and low-hanging cloud — not quite the dramatic Mount Fuji views I had imagined! Still, this is Japan: the weather is part of the experience, and it didn’t stop us from enjoying everything Hakone has to offer.
From the station, we took a local bus to our hotel, Kowakien Ten-yu. Taxis are scarce here, so hotel choice is key — most properties aren’t within walking distance of shops or restaurants, meaning you’ll want to be somewhere you’re happy to spend your evenings. Luckily, Ten-yu was perfect: a stylish resort hotel with incredible mountain views and its own hot spring baths.
The Hakone Open-Air Museum
With time to spare before check-in, we visited the Hakone Open-Air Museum. It’s part sculpture park, part gallery, and completely unique. Over 300 works are scattered across landscaped gardens, from Picasso’s ceramics to bold modern installations framed by mountain backdrops. On a clear day, Mount Fuji even makes an appearance — sadly, it stayed hidden for us, but the art and atmosphere more than made up for it.
First Onsen Experience
That evening, we dined at the hotel and quickly realised everyone else was wearing yukatas (light cotton kimonos) — thoughtfully provided in the rooms. We’d arrived in our usual Western clothes, but soon embraced the tradition, slipping into yukatas for the next night’s dinner.
The hotel also had two beautiful onsens (hot spring baths), which switch between men and women daily so guests can try both. Bathing is completely nude and there’s a specific etiquette to follow — showering before you enter is essential. I’ll admit, I chickened out this time, but next time I’d do my research and embrace it fully. My advice? Be brave. No one is looking at you, and it’s such an integral part of Japanese culture.
Ropeways, Pirate Ships & Swan Boats
The next day was our much-anticipated chance to see Mount Fuji. The weather had lifted slightly, so we set off with cautious optimism. First stop: the Hakone Ropeway, gliding over the volcanic Owakudani Valley where sulphur vents puff steam into the sky. Here, locals cook eggs in the hot springs, turning the shells black. Eating one is said to add seven years to your life! We skipped the eggs but did try the novelty black ice cream instead which I have to say tasted surprisingly nice but does turn your tongue black!
From there, we boarded a rather grand pirate ship cruise across Lake Ashi. The famous red torii gate of Hakone-jinja Shrine stood proudly in the water — one of Japan’s most photographed spots. The queue to take that Instagram shot can be over an hour long, so we decided instead on a family swan boat ride, which gave us a fun and far less crowded perspective.
Our final stop was the Mishima Skywalk, Japan’s longest pedestrian suspension bridge. On a clear day it offers panoramic views of Mount Fuji and Suruga Bay. We arrived just before closing, so sadly missed the adventure park activities (and zipline!), but even without the view of Fuji, walking across the bridge was a memorable experience.
Reflections on Hakone
We never did get that perfect postcard view of Mount Fuji — and yes, it was disappointing. But Hakone gave us so much more: tranquil onsens, quirky ropeway rides, lakeside shrines, and a slower, more traditional pace after the buzz of Tokyo. It felt like stepping into a completely different Japan.
That night, yukatas on, we toasted the experience and looked forward to the next chapter: my youngest son’s birthday, our very first bullet train ride, and a few days of thrills at Universal Studios Osaka.
Thinking of Visiting Japan?
Hakone is a wonderful contrast to Tokyo — part art, part nature, and the perfect chance to experience traditional Japanese hospitality. But it does require some planning, from pre-booking train and ropeway tickets to choosing the right hotel location.
That’s where I come in. When you book with me, I’ll make sure every detail is handled so you can simply relax and enjoy the journey — whether that’s gliding over volcanoes, soaking in an onsen, or getting that once-in-a-lifetime glimpse of Mount Fuji.
? Ready to plan your own Japan adventure? Get in touch and let’s make it unforgettable.
Rebecca x
