Sri Lanka Resplendent Island

Sri Lanka makes us think of great cricket, tea, spices, gemstones and its unique Buddhist flag but there is so much more to this beautiful country as I recently discovered. Sri Lanka was renamed in 1972 meaning “Resplendent Island”. Formerly known as Ceylon to the British, the island is also known as the Pearl of the Indian Ocean, India’s Teardrop and numerous other names given by the various civilisations who have played a part in her colourful history. Sri Lanka combines great scenic beauty, a long and fascinating history, diverse colourful culture, delicious cuisine and exotic flora, fauna and birdlife in abundance. Flying Business class meant we could enjoy the exclusive airport Lounge, fast track security, relative comfort and attentive service during the long flight, quality champagne and a flat bed. On arrival in Colombo we were met by our wonderful guide the gentle Ananda and patient good-natured driver/guides Ananda 2 and Prial, before being whisked off to the 4* Jetwing Blue hotel at Negombo for hotel inspections and a delicious dinner in the good company of our local ground handlers. The next morning we had a chance to glimpse Negombo’s vast expanse of beach before setting out to the famous Pinnawela Elephant Orphanage at Rambukkana, located between the modern capital Colombo and the historic ancient capital Kandy. I was thrilled to see herds of healthy happy elephants bathing freely in the Maha Oya River. It was a joy to see these magnificent creatures coming up out of the river en masse and to have some photos with Abi a beautiful baby elephant. We learnt some interesting facts about the elephants and their by-products. We spent so long with the elephants that we arrived at our next hotel in the dark which was a little unnerving as it looked and sounded like we were in the middle of a jungle! The wonderfully named Ulagalla Wallawwa luxury boutique Resort at Anuradhapura is a beautiful former Wallawwa or chieftain’s house surrounded by luxurious modern villas on stilts, each with their own plunge pool. Getting up the next morning at 5am was easy because we had a dawn date with the estate horses Olax and Scotch. It was touching to see the bond that existed between the horses and their cheerful jockeys and we loved riding round the estate taking in the abundant early morning wildlife. After a quick breakfast we sadly took our leave of tranquil Ulagalla heading out for the ancient ruined city of Anuradhapura. To our delight there was a religious festival happening at the temple to the sacred Bo Tree. Musicians and dancers accompanied a long procession of worshippers dressed in white who were carrying a roll of brightly coloured cloth above their heads which was carried up the steps to the temple before being wound around the base of the temple by Buddhist monks. We visited various ruins and learnt more about the ancient city before an unscheduled stop at Habarana to do some elephant riding. It was a privilege to ride a handsome elephant called Sanka around the lake and we saw more wildlife there than at any other time starting with a long snake slithering out of a termite mound just as we set off! Luckily for us Sanka wasn’t phased at all. Our next stop was to see some very contented elephants in their natural habitat on a jeep safari in the Minneriya National Park. Leopards had been spotted earlier that morning. We were not so fortunate but it was exciting searching for them. Our next hotel was the Heritance Kandalama designed by Sri Lanka’s most famous architect Sir Geoffrey Bawa. It is a truly unique hotel blending with the environment in an ecologically friendly way and offering stunning views of Sigiriya Rock and the Kandalama Lake or tank as it is affectionately known locally. Next morning we were up bright and early with some trepidation as we set out to climb Sigiriya Rock known as the 8th Wonder of the World. It is a 180 metre tall granite rock with over 1000 steps and is not for the unfit or faint-hearted. The rock has a fascinating history, there are some very well preserved frescoes en route and the views from the top are breathtaking - quite literally! It was fun and well worth the climb but I felt sorry for King Kasyappa’s men in the 5th century AD who had to build his palace on the summit in searing temperatures. Sigiriya means lion’s throat. At the entrance to the palace was a huge carving of a lion’s head with the entrance through the lion’s mouth, now just the lion's giant paws remain. We were ready for lunch at our next hotel, the bright and welcoming Cinnamon Citadel in Kandy. The cuisine at this hotel is outstanding and there is a glass encased room devoted to the most exquisite desserts. The hotel pool area overlooks the river and boat trips can be arranged. Dambulla is a UNESCO World Heritage site. The Dambulla Cave Temples are impressive containing a 47 foot long reclining Buddha and 150 life size statues of the gods. In the evening we attended a traditional Pooja or religious ceremony at Dalada Maligawa, the famous Temple of the Sacred Tooth, preceded by an enthusiastic performance of Kandyan dancing. The following morning we enjoyed some retail therapy at a gemstone factory followed by dressing up in saris complete with the appropriate bindi on our foreheads, much to the amusement of the shop girls. Our next stay was at Rosyth Estate in Kegalle, off the beaten track in the low country tea plantations. Owners Farzana and Neil welcomed us into their stunning home, a 1920s plantation house, and escorted us around the local tea factory before treating us to a cooking demonstration. Drinks on the verandah and a delicious dinner rounded off a wonderful day. Early next morning Farzana and Neil showed us around their estate with its tea and rubber plantations accompanied by the claxon of the local bread van making its deliveries. It was a fascinating insight into local life as we passed children on their way to school, met the tea pickers and the estate manager. All too soon we were off to Galle, the capital of southern Sri Lanka, to see the famous Lighthouse, the beautiful Dutch church and walk along the Fort ramparts. We stayed at the 5* Fortress luxury resort at Koggala. Housed behind thick walls and imposing huge wooden doors is a colonial style hotel of grand proportions right on the beach. Next morning we called in at a brand new hotel, Cape Weligama, already mentioned in Conde Nast Traveller magazine. The hotel offers secluded lavish villas with plunge pools dotted around a grassy elevated complex overlooking the surrounding surfing beaches. The recently reopened Centara Ceysands was our final stop, lying between the river and golden sands of Bentota beach. We enjoyed the hotel evening entertainment (and provided some of our own!) to round off what had been a fabulous trip. I would love to share my experiences and help to arrange a wonderful trip to Sri Lanka for you so contact me now to find out more.