18 June 2019

My first impression of Kuala Lumpur was a gleaming modern city with swathes of green parkland. On closer inspection beautiful colonial buildings, ornate temples and mosques can be found next to traditional street markets reflecting the history and culture of the Malaysian capital. Our cheery guide Sarah informed us that at the weekends the population of the city drops from around 7 million to just 3 million inhabitants. The Petronas Twin Towers are an iconic landmark and our perfectly positioned hotel rooms had fantastic views which certainly made an impact, especially at night when the Towers are lit up. The Traders hotel is a short walk from the Towers and neighbouring shopping mall. Traders Sky Bar, a sophisticated roof top pool lounge with DJs and guaranteed entry for residents is great place to chill out with a cocktail and soak up the superb views. A short walk from our hotel we discovered the graceful Friday Mosque, Masjid Jamek, and the old colonial railway station. The ladies had to don bright red full-length hooded robes before being allowed into the Mosque which caused great amusement and more than a little discomfort in the humid heat. With cheeks matching our robes we trooped in and enjoyed a fascinating insight into the Mosque which was designed in the Mogul style by a British architect. We admired the old Cricket Ground and nearby Colonial era Government buildings before immersing ourselves in the local Central Market for a traditional Asian lunch of delicious local specialities. KL is an attractive thoughtfully developed modern city with green spaces and many varied attractions including parks, museums, galleries, shopping centres, markets, temples, Botanical gardens, a bird park, a butterfly park, and even caves. Merdeka Square is where Malaysian independence was declared in 1957 and it is home to some significant historical buildings, many designed by British architect AC Norman who arrived in 1883. It’s possible to take one of Visit KL’s free tours as a good starting point for your exploration of the city. Food plays a big part in Malaysian culture and KL’s Little India and Chinatown, hawkers stalls, food courts, trendy cafes and fine dining restaurants cater for all tastes and budgets. Jalan Alor is the most famous food street whilst off the tourist trail, Glutton Street, a hawker street alley near Pudu Market, offers delicious bargain priced dishes. For a nostalgic afternoon tea in a pretty setting I recommend the Orchid Conservatory at the famous Majestic Hotel, a National Heritage site, which combines contemporary elegance with meticulously restored grandeur. Borneo is the third largest island in the World and the capital of Sabah state, Kota Kinabalu, is just a short flight from KL. I was disappointed to look out of the plane windows and see yet another modern city. I naively expected to see jungle and mud huts! Mount Kinabalu which gave the city its name is located to the East of the city and National Park lies to the West. Our stunning hotel, the Shangri La Rasa Ria, soon made up for any initial disappointment. We were greeted by a full welcoming committee with beautiful lei garlands. Our rooms in the exclusive Ocean Wing were sumptuous with a huge double jacuzzi and day bed on the spacious balconies overlooking the 3-kilometre-long sandy beach. I would stay here again in a heartbeat. We spent a full day on Gaya Island, a boutique style eco-hotel reached by speedboat from Jesselton Point in Kota Kinabalu. It is a haven for nature and wildlife enthusiasts and very interesting to learn about the conservation projects from the resident Marine Biologist. The next day we drove further into the interior to the Kinabalu National Park. The Mari Mari Cultural Village introduced us to life in a very wet rainforest. Sporting cellophane raincoats we discovered various attractions including a traditional long house, learnt about cooking and hunting tools and made feeble attempts at firing blow darts before sampling some rice wine and local delicacies and enjoying a performance of indigenous music and dancing. The Poring Hot Springs are popular with local families who will hire individual hot baths for picnics. A short trek was a highlight of our visit crossing over suspension bridges and canopy walks high above the forest floor. We walked through the Kinabalu Botanical Gardens, home to more than 1500 species of orchid including the world’s smallest variety, the tiny Pinhead orchid. Mount Kota Kinabalu was resolutely swaddled in clouds during our visit. Our guide had climbed it 99 times! He explained how it is best climbed over 2 days, waking at 2am on day 2 to catch the sunrise over the summit - weather permitting! Wild boar is a popular snack for climbers en route with one stall selling over a ton of wild boar in a week during high season. Our final hotel was the Shangri La Tanjug Aru, conveniently located 10 minutes from the centre of KK and the airport. it is a busy hotel suited both to leisure and business guests. Families can enjoy the Tanjung Wing whilst the Kinabalu Wing is ideal for couples or corporate guests seeking a more exclusive experience. There is a great Waterpark and a secure children’s play area next to the main restaurant. The hotels’ Star Marina is exceptionally well set up for families and experienced water sports enthusiasts with all the equipment that might be needed and expert tuition. We enjoyed a tour of some of the 5 offshore islands in one of the hotel speedboats. For thrill seekers there is the Coral Flyer zipwire between Gaya Island and Sapi Island and an exciting jetboat ride that was enjoyed by Prince William and Kate on their visit. The islands of Sapi, Manukan and Mamutik are popular for hiking, diving and snorkelling. Other islands worth visiting include Sipidan, 3 hours by boat off the south-east tip of Sabah and ranked one of the top diving destinations in the world; and Labuan Island with water villages where residents still live in stilt houses. It’s possible to visit orangutans and sun bears at Sepilok Nature Reserve in Sandakan, an hour’s flight from KK. I recommend a trip on the Kinabatangan River for the chance to see proboscis monkeys and, if you are very lucky, orangutans in the wild. Elephants, gibbons, hornbills and many other species of bird can also be seen. I would love to use my experiences to help you create your own Malaysian Adventure!

15 February 2019

A shimmering swimming pool set in beautiful Italianate gardens is not something you would necessarily expect to find on a city break to Rome but I can highly recommend it for a decadent touch of luxury if travelling during the hot summer months. The Gran Melia Roma Villa Agrippina once belonged to Emperor Nero’s mother. Upon arrival, my son and I were immediately invited to enjoy a welcome glass of champagne by the pool. Cool fragrant towels and a warm welcome swiftly followed, and I knew it was my kind of hotel. The only problem was tearing ourselves away from the plush sun loungers around the pool! In an elevated spot across from the Vatican City and a gentle stroll along the River Tiber from my favourite neighbourhood of Trastevere, our location was perfect. We had views of the Castel St Angelo and the Ponte Principe Amedeo Savoia Aosta, a great bridge from which to take photos of the sunset over the Vatican and the elaborate Ponte Vittorio Emanuele II. Our trip was a pre-university treat for my son who chose our Itinerary. The Foro Italico is a large sports complex in the North of the City. It was built under Mussolini and is a prime example of Italian Fascist architecture with a large obelisk to honour Mussolini. Originally built to attract the 1944 Olympic Games which were cancelled due to the war, it is home to football teams Lazio and Roma. There are tennis courts, swimming pools, a large arena and the Olympic Stadium, rebuilt in 1990 to house 70,000 spectators, and the much smaller Stadio Dei Marmi, surrounded by 60 marble statues of athletes. The MAXXI National Museum of Contemporary Art and Architecture was designed by Zaha Hadid and won the Stirling Prize from the Royal Institute of British Architects in 2010. Zaha wanted to create a fluid building with no firm distinction between the interior and exterior. There were to be five buildings but only one has been built on the site of former military barracks in the Flaminio district. The Auditorium by Italian architect Renzo Piano is nearby too. No visit to Rome is complete without a visit to the iconic Coliseum. The standard ticket also includes admission to the Forum and Palatine Hill. To avoid the queues and heat of the day, it’s best to go either at 8.30am or a couple of hours before closing time which is dependent on the sunset. It is now possible to book access to the upper terraces where the poorest plebeians would have been seated. A novel way to visit is at night, especially if there is a clear moon. Additional areas are accessible, and it would certainly be atmospheric! Even in the bright sunlight, I could almost hear the roar of the baying crowds and smell the blood and sweat. The Forum is fascinating, and the sense of history is overwhelming. Once the centre of the Mediterranean World, it is now a pile of ruins. Combined with the Palatine Hill, there is an awful lot to take in and you need several hours and comfortable walking shoes to do it all justice. The Circus Maximus used for games and chariot racing is now little more than an open space but in recent years, it has been used a venue for rock concerts by Genesis and the Rolling Stones. The road running parallel has some charming cafes for an aperitivo and a restorative snack. It is essential to throw a few coins in the famous Trevi Fountain, said to guarantee your return. If you’re prepared to wriggle your way through the crowds and don’t mind a damp bottom as you perch on the fountain edge, you can just about get a decent selfie. The famous Spanish Steps are a short walk away and it’s worth climbing to the top to visit the pretty Trinita dei Monti church for its works of art and superb views. Trastevere is the old artisan area with cobbled streets, narrow alleyways and a plethora of trattoria-style restaurants. It is quiet and sophisticated by day, a little more raucous by night but perfect at any time for delicious reasonably priced food and wine! The area around the Vatican City is popular with cruise ship visitors and expensive whilst the parkland of the Villa Borghese is ideal for a picnic. Fresh water fountains are dotted around the city so it’s a good idea to take a reusable water bottle. Gelato and delicious snacks are of course everywhere, and everyone has their own recommendations for the best! On the first Sunday of every month government-managed monuments, museums and gardens are free to the public but bear in mind that 30,000 visitors can descend on the Coliseum on that one day! Transport links in Italy are good and Rome can easily be combined with other cities to create a multi -centre Italian escapade. I would love to help create your very own Italian adventure so please don't hesitate to get in touch!

04 February 2019

Gong Hei Fat Choy or Xin Nian Hao! Whether you are wishing your friends wealth and prosperity or just a simple Happy New Year it’s the thought that counts! With colourful Chinese New Year celebrations captivating our attention, China is an increasingly popular destination for visitors from the UK. Most visitors need a visa and from 1st November 2018 it’s a requirement to attend one of three visa application centres in the UK to have fingerprints taken. I visited China last year and was relieved to find that China’s Shanghai Pudong Airport is reassuringly modern and easy to negotiate. My tour wasn’t due to start until the next day and I was impatient to start exploring with my newly acquired tour buddies. After a long walk from our hotel and failed attempts at conversing with some bemused locals we found the subway. Outside the main tourist areas, you may struggle to be understood and few taxi drivers speak English so it’s important to have the name of your hotel written in Chinese. Shanghai has an excellent transport system. Our first destination was the famous Nanjing Road. At over 5 kilometres long it is the world’s longest shopping district attracting more than 1 million visitors every day! At the Eastern end of Nanjing Road stands the iconic Peace Hotel dating back to 1929, and the central section of the Bund. The sun was setting as we arrived, bathing the stunning buildings along the Bund waterfront in a pink and golden sheen. Across the Huangpu River modern Shanghai gleamed in the fading sun. The distinctive Oriental Pearl Radio and Television Tower is particularly compelling and demands countless photos! The area is famous for bars and restaurants. The whole waterfront comes alive as the evening light show begins and vessels adorned with colourful lights ferry passengers up and down to enjoy the spectacle. The nearby French Quarter exudes colonial elegance and modern extravagance. Its tree-lined streets are graced with opulent hotels and statement supercars. It is the perfect place to sit with a glass of champagne soaking up the atmosphere of a bygone era Next morning, we were up early to visit the top of the Shanghai Tower, the tallest in Shanghai and second tallest in the world after the Burj Khalifa in Dubai. It is a fun interactive experience. By way of contrast, the nearby tranquil Yu Garden dates back to the Ming Dynasty and has a huge Jade stone as its centrepiece. As evening fell, we made our way back to the River for an evening cruise. We had a totally different perspective from the water, and it was wonderful to travel along the length of the Bund to fully appreciate the magnificent architecture. Watery Suzhou, known as the Venice of the East, was our next stop and it certainly lived up to its reputation. We were treated to a relentless heavy downpour! Undeterred we took a trip down one of the crumbling ancient canals and peered out through the rain at the quaint little dwellings lining the banks. There are welcoming cafes amongst the lanes where we tried some local delicacies. Later we found a steamy tea house and enjoyed being cosy and dry with hot drinks and cake. A visit to a silk factory was interesting but Suzhou’s evocative Lingering Garden has UNESCO World Heritage status and is one of the most famous gardens in China symbolising the Qing Dynasty. With a little trepidation we arrived at Suzhou Railway station to catch our overnight sleeper train to Xian, site of the famous terracotta warriors. Stocking up on drinks and nibbles proved essential. The compartments are for 4 people and we soon got to know each other better as we climbed up and down into our respective bunks. Before settling down we enjoyed chatting and swopping stories of our travels. The shared facilities are extremely basic but providing you know what to expect it’s all part of the adventure! On arrival in Xian we visited the Big Wild Goose Pagoda and cycled along the impressive City walls which date back to 1370 and are some of the few remaining city fortifications in China. The Muslim Quarter was one of my highlights of the trip with stall after stall of exotic Eastern culinary delights! We met up with a local ex-pat who showed us where she lived and the Xian night life. Emperor Qin’s 2,200-year-old Terracotta Warriors proved even more amazing than I anticipated. The sheer scale and numbers are breath-taking. 7,000 clay warriors stand in military formation and no two faces are alike. It is fascinating to see the ongoing excavation in progress. Another overnight sleeper train took us to the Chinese capital, Beijing, for the last leg of our tour. Tiananmen Square and the Forbidden City are huge and busy. Tiananmen Square is home to the mausoleum of Chairman Mao Tse-Tung and the striking Monument to the People’s Heroes. The Gate of Heavenly Peace with its portrait of Chairman Mao is the main entry point into the Forbidden City. Built between 1406 and 1420 the Forbidden City served as the Imperial Palace for the Ming and Qing Dynasties. The last Emperor Puyi was removed from his throne in 1911. A rickshaw ride around the Hutongs or ancient lanes was very welcome and we enjoyed visiting a local family to see how they lived. The humble little homes are now prime Beijing real estate. A Chinese Acrobatic Evening included some extreme feats and was very entertaining. Later we visited the Bird’s Nest National stadium and marvelled at the structure which was pumping out Opera music into the night air. Next door, the National Aquatic Centre is known as the Water Cube because of its shape and innovative blue bubble membrane designed to reflect the light. Our last full day was spent travelling out to see the indomitable Great Wall. At one time the wall was garrisoned by over 1 million soldiers and had over 10,000 beacon towers. To finally step onto the Wall on a bright sunny clear day was a “pinch-me” moment that I had dreamt of since my schooldays. A stroll along a quiet section of the Wall in the fresh mountain air provided time for reflection to relish the moment. Visiting Chins is hugely rewarding and exciting because it is full of iconic landmarks that we are all familiar with. What it’s not possible to prepare for is the sheer scale and magnificence of many of the attractions. To create your very own Chinese adventure contact me on 01932 8009330 or by email at julie.welfare@travelcounsellors.com

16 November 2018

My first visit to Perth in Western Australia was over 20 years ago. I was totally unprepared for the impact the country would have on me with its miles of wide open spaces, dramatic flora and fauna, outdoor lifestyle and plain speaking inhabitants. I have returned many times but always wanted to experience Christmas on the beach! Finally, last December I boarded a flight with my two teenage sons to spend Christmas in Perth and New Year in Sydney. The trip was prompted by the fact we could combine it with the Ashes Tour and catch cricket matches in both cities. We landed in Perth immersed in the dazzling bright sunshine I’ve come to expect of Australia and it felt, as it always does, like coming home. I wasn’t so keen on getting up early the next morning to visit the local Manning Farmers Market but, judging by the numbers of cars and people, it is a Saturday morning ritual for the locals. Food and drink have come a long way since my first visit. WA is home to wineries, cider houses, orchards, fruit farms, micro-breweries, organic and gourmet restaurants and cafes. Perth is Western Australia’s beautiful capital city and best viewed from Kings Park high above the city. Kings Park is the most popular attraction in WA, said to be the largest city park in the world at over 400.6 hectares of unique bushland, a wonderful treetop walk and tranquil manicured parkland. The city has been developed and expanded in recent years so it looks even shinier and new than I remembered! The area around Elizabeth Quay is particularly exciting with well-known luxury hotels opening, trendy bars and restaurants. The Bell Tower overlooking the picturesque Swan River houses 12 bells taken from our own London church of St Martin-in-the-Fields. Thes bells are said to date before the 14th Century and have rang out to herald many famous events such as the English defeating the Spanish Armada in 1588, El Alamein in 1942 and the cremation of every British monarch since George II in 1727. The Perth Mint is well worth a visit to see the dramatic Pouring of the Gold to make a gold bar, find out your worth in gold and see the world’s largest gold coin. Northbridge has traditionally been the nightlife area of the city. More recently On the Point has sprung up as the newest waterfront entertainment and dining area. The WACA was hosting the test cricket. A new stadium has recently opened so this was to be the last ever Ashes series at the old ground which has been the home of cricket in WA since the 1890s. After the cricket we headed south to Dunsborough a pretty seaside town on the shores of Geographe Bay in the picturesque Margaret River region with its many wineries and microbreweries. We passed through towering Karri forest and climbed the famous Gloucester Tree. At 60 metres high the Gloucester Tree is one of several trees that were designated look-out trees for forest fires. Adventurous visitors with a head for heights can climb the series of thin spikes up to the top for some superb views. Other local attractions include Canal Rocks one of many striking headlands along the Leeuwin-Naturaliste coastline, Sugar Loaf Rock, the Naturaliste Lighthouse, pristine white sand Smiths Beach and sheltered Meelup Beach which is perfect for families. Nearby Busselton has the longest jetty in the Southern Hemisphere. Perth has over 900 speciality shops and numerous arcades ideal for Christmas Eve shopping. King Street, a few minutes walk from the CBD, is the place to find designer brands whilst Freemantle, a 30-minute drive south-west, is more bohemian with local Western Australian designers, art galleries and the Freemantle Markets. It is a family tradition to have fish and chips from one of the harbourside restaurants in Freemantle or “Freo” as it is known. The torchlight tour at Freemantle Prison is not to be missed but beware there are a couple of scary surprises! Christmas morning is a time for everyone to go to the beach to meet up with family and friends, wear Christmas hats, swap presents and enjoy a pre-Christmas lunch drink. It is a great atmosphere and my favourite place to be! Perth is famous for magnificent Indian ocean beaches with pure white sand and turquoise waters. Many have lifeguards on duty, good facilities and BBQs for public use. Rottnest Island is a popular tourist attraction with yet more beaches and the cute, distinctive quokkas that inhabit the island. In the 1700s the Dutch thought these small marsupials were rats hence the name Rottnest or “rat’s nest” but in recent times they have gained a reputation as the world’s happiest animal and are notorious for posing for selfies! Western Australia has a huge amount to offer all ages. For more information and help planning your own Australian Adventure call me on 07794 479239. I look forward to hearing from you!

04 November 2018

Japan caught me unaware! A mesmerising intoxicating blend of crazy neon and modern infrastructure contrasting with deeply-steeped ancient culture and courteous, respectful citizens going about their business, sometimes in huge numbers sharing tiny confined spaces. Despite the overwhelming towering skyscrapers and seemingly endless shopping streets of Tokyo I was smitten from the off! The toy-like vending machines on street corners selling all manner of hot and cold drinks reminded me of toys I played with as a child. There is a childlike quality to much of Japan from the wonderful array of every imaginable kind of candy store to the doll-like fashions and crazy Manga cartoons. It is all part of Japan's captivating charm. Tokyo’s Haneda airport is closer to the city than Narita. My first stop was a compact hotel in the Marunouchi area near Tokyo station. It proved to be perfect for getting around, and the local shops and vast shopping centre beneath the station were ideal for surprisingly cheap local food. Japan doesn’t have to be expensive if you are happy to eat the delicious, healthy local dishes rather than Western food. Food is everywhere! The local restaurants where you could order your meal from a vending window outside for a few pounds proved fascinating. Equally Starbucks, German Beer Kellars, Italian and Chinese restaurants and British Pubs were readily available. A preloaded swipe travel card is by far the best way to get around. They are used for trains, buses and even buying snacks and are easily topped up with instructions available in English. The public transport is clean, efficient and sometimes extremely crowded. The underground seems vast compared to London. Asakusa in the Eastern neighbourhoods away from the skyscrapers has a traditional older residential feel with temples and gardens. At the Asakusa Cultural Centre, we engaged in Nihon Buyo, a form of Japanese dancing that has been around for 400 years. We embraced the occasion and dressed in a yukata or casual kimono, and flourished our fans as directed by the lovely ladies in charge. The Cultural Centre itself is a fascinating piece of contemporary architecture from Japanese architects Kengo Kuma. In keeping with Japan’s juxtaposition of old and new, it stands directly opposite the ancient Buddhist Temple Senso-Ji, constructed in the 6th Century and the oldest of its kind in the city. It was bizarre to see Super-Mario go-karts whizzing past us in the traffic driven by grinning drivers dressed in Super-hero costumes, but we soon realised they are a constant presence in the craziness of Tokyo. At the famous Meiji-Jingu, Tokyo’s largest Shrine dedicated to the Emperor Meiji and Empress Shoken whose reign brought Japan from an isolationist feudal state to the modern nation, we learned how to purify ourselves with water at the font before approaching the shrine. Our guide explained that this is different to the ritual for offering a prayer at a temple and it is important to distinguish between the two. Harajuku is the heart of Tokyo’s fashion and street culture district and Takeshita-dori is a pilgrimage site for teens from all over Japan. Packed with excited throngs of shoppers where basques and tutus appear alongside punk, gothic and Victoriana with more than a few strange characters hanging out along the way. Later we braved the famous Shibuya Crossing, rumoured to be the biggest interchange in the world, where a thousand people can cross at any one time. We were fascinated by the neon and billboards of Akihabara or “Akiba” as it is affectionately known. It is the heart of pop culture with garishly lit electronics stores, retro arcades and cosplay cafes. Entire stores are devoted to manga and anime with comics, DVDs, action figures and all manner of accessories. Maid cafes with waitresses dressed as racy French maids or prim Victorian maids are a regular feature as are the live singing and dancing shows with performers wearing cute costumes and handing out light sabres. Our next day took us to the sunny seaside resort of Kamakura and the ancient Great Buddha which dates back to 1252. Originally housed inside the Kotokuin Temple and covered in gold, the Great Buddha weighs 93 tons and stands 13.35 metres high. Since a tsunami on 20th September 1492 the statue has been exposed to the elements and now only traces of gold can be seen behind the contemplative Buddha’s long elegant ears. The nearby Zen Temple of Hokokuji built during turbulent times is a haven of tranquillity with a serene bamboo garden where visitors can enjoy tea. A highlight of our trip was finding a tiny local restaurant with just three chairs at the bar and two choices on the menu where we enjoyed the most delicious tempura freshly prepared by a Japanese gentleman who quietly produced one mouth-watering morsel after another for the tiniest price. Iconic Mount Fuji beckoned and a visit to the annual Phlox Moss Festival where the slopes of the famous Mountain are decked in a skirt of vibrant pink and purple moss. Around a pretty lake were stalls selling colourful themed snacks and Mount Fuji-related souvenirs. There was even a temporary Post Office so you could send a postcard. At 3776 metres Mount Fuji is Japan’s highest and most famous peak. It is often hidden in the clouds but when it makes an appearance it is strangely endearing and the surrounding five lakes reflect its almost symmetrical cone. A popular must do when visiting Japan is staying in a traditional Ryokan or Japanese Inn. The minimalist rooms are carpeted with tatami mats and we slept on a simple futon which can be a little hard. The Kaiseki evening banquet laid out in the hall like dining room was a sight to behold and truly delicious. Kaiseki is a form of fine dining with lots of tiny exquisitely presented dishes. A feature of our ryokan was the Onsen or natural hot spring baths which were so wonderfully relaxing we ended up going back again for a relaxing pre-bedtime dip. I especially liked the outside pool where you could be immersed in the warm water whilst gazing up at the night sky and breathing in fresh mountain air! Our next stop was Kyoto. The iconic Bullet trains were very impressive as they swooshed through the station at Mishima. Soon it was our turn to board excitedly remarking on the spacious, clean carriages. For lunch we enjoyed carefully laid out Bento boxes purchased at the platform kiosk. They look too good to eat and taste even better. As one of the most culturally rich cities in Asia, the lofty galactic style Kyoto Station building is a fitting gateway and an attraction in its own right. The first sight as you step outside is the distinctive Kyoto Tower. Kyoto is home to an abundance of UNESCO World Heritage sites, Buddhist temples and Shinto shrines. The Sanjusagen-do Temple stands out for its 1000 life-size statues of Kannon, the Goddess of Mercy, each hand-crafted and slightly different to the others. The pretty and romantic Geisha district of Gion was my favourite with its scenes from Memoirs of a Geisha and many photo opportunities. It was fascinating to learn about the lengthy expensive training a Geisha will undergo and how revered they are in Japanese society. We enjoyed a cultural performance with musicians, Japanese comedy and a Maiko (apprentice Geisha) dancing. Later we were thrilled to have a much-coveted photo with her. Nijo Castle built by the first Tokugawa Shogun in 1603 is one of Kyoto’s most impressive UNESCO sites with powerful masculine structures. KInkakuji, the Golden Pavilion, is an attractive Zen Buddhist Temple and the gold leaf covering the first two floors is reflected perfectly in the lake on which it stands. The Fushimi Inari Shrine has a winding path lined with thousands of red torii gates up to the top of Mount Inari with panoramic views over the city. All too soon it was time to bid farewell to Japan and start the next leg of my tour in Shanghai but Japan left a lasting impression on me and I can’t wait to explore more of this beautiful country of contrasts and respectful, gentle people.

16 October 2018

Travelling overland from Victoria Falls to Chobe Game Lodge in Botswana is an interesting experience. We had a series of different guides and travelled by road and a ferry, that resembled an over-sized tin bath, across the river at Kazungula where 4 countries meet; Zambia, Botswana, Namibia and Zimbabwe. It is a chaotic place as the official ferries can take only 2 heavy trucks at a time and there are queues of truckers patiently waiting for their turn which can take days or even weeks. It is also a building site. A bridge was proposed in 2007 and latest estimates suggest it might be finished by 2021. Chobe Game Lodge is compact and pretty, more like a hotel than a traditional game lodge. It is the only permanent safari lodge within the famous Chobe National Park. Uniquely, the safari guides are all women who run the activities with military precision via a huge whiteboard in the reception area. The routes through the National Park are tightly controlled. Mid-morning and evening cruises on the Chobe River are an alternative option to a game drive in vehicles. It is a haven for bird watchers with over 450 species in the Chobe region. On an evening game drive our guide was surprised to come across a huge sleepy owl sitting in the middle of one of the many dirt tracks. The park is known for its large population of elephants and the tables were turned when one came rather uncomfortably close to our vehicle to examine us! We particularly enjoyed the antics of the baboons on the banks of the Chobe river and a pride of handsome lions basking luxuriantly in the sunshine. Our next stop was Camp Okavango on remote Nxaraga Island in the heart of the Okavango Delta. Our little safari plane landed on the airstrip adjacent to the Camp as an inquisitive elephant walked alongside as if to welcome us. Botswana’s magnificent Okavango Delta is a maze of lagoons, lakes and hidden channels covering an area of 16,000 square kilometres in flood and shrinking to less than 9,000 square kilometres in the dry season. The bird watching is outstanding and fishing for bream and tiger fish is offered in season. After settling into our authentic spacious safari suite our first included activity was in a traditional canoe called a mokoro. A young guide propelled us gently through the mass of reeds and channels where we saw hippos, crocodiles and lots of bird life. Our peace was shattered when to my horror a large hippo suddenly rose up out of the water right next to me and I envisaged us being tipped out of the canoe at his mercy! Fortunately, our young guide wasn’t in the slightest bit perturbed and carried on punting along murmuring soothing words to calm our jangling nerves. It is said that the hippo is the deadliest animal to encounter so I wasn’t quite as relaxed next time we went out. Luckily our future outings were in a motor boat which offered a lot more protection, and speed to escape if necessary. Walking safaris are very popular in the Okavango Delta and next morning we set off with a disconcertingly elderly guide armed only with a large stick. Guides do not carry guns in Botswana using their intuition and skills to avoid confrontation. To my amazement our guide announced that we would be tracking a lioness who had been sighted in the area. It wasn’t long before we heard her distinctive loud rumbling and eventually we were able to see her from a safe distance. It was an exhilarating experience! For the rest of our stay our game viewing was a mix of boat trips and walking safaris on different islands. I never tired of seeing versions of Pumbaa trotting along, their little tails held aloft as they hurried about their business looking ever-important. The large crocodiles we saw basking on the river banks were impressive showing off their formidable teeth in a menacing grin. Giraffe, impala, roebuck, baboons, elephant and huge numbers of birds all made an appearance and we swopped stories with fellow guests in the evening over delicious dinners and drinks around the fire pits. All too soon it was time to leave Camp O and fly via Maun and Johannesburg to Vilanculos in Mozambique where we could catch a speedboat to beautiful Bazaruto Island. We were staying at the Anantara Bazaruto Island Resort and Spa to enjoy some beach time after getting up at 5.30am every day for morning game viewing. As we sped over the crystal-clear turquoise sea we could see dolphins frolicking in the distance and caught a glimpse of what looked like a dugong, but it was too quick to be certain. A small crowd had gathered on the long golden sandy beach and drawing closer we realised that it was a colourful welcome reception of smiling people in traditional dress all playing music, singing and dancing for our arrival! At 37 kilometres long and up to 7 kilometres wide Bazaruto is the largest island in the protected Bazaruto Archipelago which was declared a National Park in 1971. It is an unspoilt tropical island paradise in which guests can totally relax and immerse themselves. The rustic natural beauty of Bazaruto and the genuine kindness of the staff make it quite unique. The service is exceptional and the food delicious. I felt as though the staff were anticipating our every wish. When my son wanted to watch the World Cup football our entire table was transported across the dining room so that he could sit directly in front of the TV, much to his delight! There are a surprising number of activities and excursions available including water sports, riding from the hotel’s own stables, bird watching, fishing, visits to nearby islands, excellent diving and much more. The enormous sand dunes on the island provide great dune boarding. Another highlight is visiting the local community supported by the hotel and where the children are grateful for gifts of stationery and books. My only consolation when leaving Bazaruto island was that we had one last night in Johannesburg at the luxurious Michelangelo Hotel, a member of the prestigious Leading Hotels of the World group. There we enjoyed a special gourmet dinner with wine pairings overlooking Nelson Mandela Square, a precious mother and son evening to end a truly wonderful holiday of a lifetime! I'd be delighted to help you arrange your very own bespoke African holiday of a lifetime. Contact me now for an informal chat.

26 September 2018

When I first heard the translation of Mosi Oa Tunya I was captivated by the evocative description of Victoria Falls – in the language of the Kololo or Lozi people it means “the smoke that thunders”. I knew instantly that one day I had to experience it for myself! Earlier this year I finally had the opportunity to fulfil my long-held ambition. As our flight drew closer to Livingstone I spotted the “smoke” rising on the horizon as if there was a large bonfire. A ripple of excited chatter ran through the plane as everyone leaned over to catch a first glimpse of this magnificent natural phenomenon that is justifiably one of the Seven Natural Wonders of the World. The Victoria Falls border both Zambia and Zimbabwe on either side of the mighty Zambezi River, which is the largest river in Africa and one of the longest. It flows through Zambia, Zimbabwe, Angola, Namibia and Mozambique before finally reaching the Indian Ocean. I had read that you must see both sides of the Falls as they are quite different, and I wanted to be able to explain this to my future clients, so we queued up on arrival at the small airport to obtain our KAZA UniVisas. We stayed at the wonderful colonial Royal Livingstone by Anantara Hotel on the Zambia side of the Falls. We were greeted by the commanding Edward in his colourful national dress that was apparently bestowed upon his forbears by visiting Scotsmen in the 17th Century. Edward takes charge of arranging your check-in and from that point on he greets every guest by name. It was a delight to meet him and enjoy a welcome drink and a complimentary hand and arm massage whilst our room was given one last check. The grounds of the Royal Livingstone are superb with zebra, impala and giraffe amongst the animals that wander freely. The hotel has its own entrance to the Falls and stables – it seemed surreal to see a beautiful horse being ridden past the swimming pool! A sunset cruise aboard the African Queen was a gentle introduction to the mighty Zambezi River. We sipped drinks and nibbled canapes watching the hippos wallowing in the mud with just their eyes and little pink ears visible. The tranquillity of the sunset was punctuated with occasional snorts as they frolicked in the cool of the evening. My enduring memory of dinner at the Royal Livingstone is that as soon as I sat at the table a delightful little footstool was immediately produced at my side for my handbag to rest on! This is a tradition started when a guest requested a chair for her handbag and I now look wistfully for my footstool everywhere I go! Our next day began with a tour of the Zimbabwe side of the Falls. It is the more interesting side with many different viewpoints. We started with a visit to the statue of David Livingstone, the intrepid Scottish missionary explorer who discovered the Falls. He was taken to a nearby island (now Livingstone island), saw the Falls from the island and immediately named them after his Queen. Despite wearing heavy duty raincoats, we were soaked to the skin after visiting most of the viewpoints! We had lunch at the famous Lookout Café overlooking the spectacular gorge and the Victoria Falls Bridge which was completed in 1905 as part of Cecil Rhodes’ vision to build a railway from Cape Town to Cairo. Sadly, it never quite reached Cairo but had a vast impact on the local economy. The locals told us that the Bridge is now so unstable that only one large truck at a time can cross it. The town is named after David Livingstone and was once the capital of what was then known as Northern Rhodesia. It has many fascinating historical connections and the National Museum is the largest and oldest in Zambia. It is possible to bungee jump, do white-water rafting, take a helicopter flight, go horse riding and enjoy many more activities around the Falls. We chose to do a micro-light flight over the Falls which was absolutely thrilling, and I recommend it to everyone. My pilot was a former fighter-jet pilot and the commentary was crystal clear and highly informative (when I managed to tear my thoughts away from the fact that I was effectively sitting behind a lawnmower!) It was the most exhilarating feeling to look down through the sparkling rainbows shimmering in the mist and know that there was absolutely nothing separating you from the Falls except water droplets and air! As well as the iconic Falls we were able to see hippos, giraffe and elephants from the microlight. It really is the most exciting way to appreciate the Falls and surrounding area. All too soon we were back on terra firma to explore the Zambian side of the Falls from the grounds of our hotel. More iconic viewpoints and another soaking later we were glad to sink into our comfortable chairs on the terrace, cocktail in hand and watch the sun setting over the Zambezi. Next morning, we were lucky to have a close encounter with a family of giraffe in the hotel grounds before we checked out for the next leg of our adventure on safari in Botswana! For your own bespoke African Adventure contact Julie Welfare of Travel Counsellors on 01932 809330 or at www.travelcounsellors.co.uk/julie.welfare

12 February 2018

New Year’s Eve fireworks in Sydney are a dazzling, deafening and altogether wonderful assault on the senses. For over 20 years I have been promising myself a New Year’s Eve in Sydney and taking my sons to see the cricket was the perfect excuse. I have visited Australia many times, having fallen in love with the country on my very first whistle-stop tour. The weather, the beaches, the outdoor way of life, great food and wine, welcoming Aussies, relaxed lifestyle – the list of positives is endless. Sydney Harbour is one of the most beautiful natural harbours in the world and, being the trip of a lifetime, only a Harbour View room would do. Opening the door every evening and being confronted with the iconic Opera House lit up in all its glory quite literally took my breath away. Our hotel in the historic Rocks area had a rooftop swimming pool and deck overlooking the Sydney Harbour Bridge and the Opera House. On New Year’s Eve we could pop up to the rooftop to see the different events starting around 6pm. I had been watching the crowds gather on the pavements below us around the harbour’s edge from about 7am. There are many viewpoints all around the harbour and at Darling Harbour, with several displays going on. Some of the viewpoints are alcohol free and all are monitored by police, so everyone has a good time. It’s possible to book private events around the city costing from upwards of a couple of hundred pounds a ticket, or to enjoy the fireworks from one of the many boats and yachts that sail the harbour festooned with twinkling lights. There are important considerations when planning your trip. Firstly, getting to Australia is not cheap and it takes a long time. Unless you don’t mind being cramped in Economy class seats for nearly 24 hours you might want to break your journey for a night or two en route or consider upgrading your seats to Premium Economy for a little more legroom and comfort (usually hundreds rather than thousands of pounds) or to Business class for a superior service and lie-flat bed (thousands of pounds). Christmas and New Year is peak time. It is essential to book early, ideally as soon as flights go on sale around 11 months prior to departure, and whilst there is still availability for hotel rooms in good locations. Harbour view rooms are at a premium in Sydney, and those in the know are quick off the mark to book. Sydney has over 100 beaches and endless attractions. The historic Rocks area has wonderful old pubs, boutique shopping, galleries and markets. It is also where visitors will find the famous Sydney Bridge Climb. The Discovery Museum traces the history of the Aboriginal people who inhabited the shores of Sydney Harbour from the arrival of the First Fleet through to the present day. Circular Quay is the busy transport hub of the city. Taking the ferry to the laid-back beaches of Manly is ideal for capturing close-up photos of the Opera House and Sydney Harbour Bridge. The Botanical Gardens are the perfect spot for a picnic, or you could catch a concert in the Domain. A tour of the SGC is a must for cricket fans, while lively Darling Harbour is home to numerous restaurants, the Sydney Aquarium and Madam Tussauds. I recommend taking a trip beyond the city to the Blue Mountains for spectacular scenery and natural wilderness, the Hunter Valley for rolling countryside and superb wineries, or Port Stephens for dolphin watching and golden sand dunes. These trips are often combined with a stop at a wildlife park for photo opportunities with a cute koala bear and other native animals. British passport holders will need an “eta” or electronic authority to travel to Australia. Going to Australia warrants at least two weeks, ideally longer, and you could take in several different destinations, time and budget permitting. From the stunning Indian Ocean beaches of Western Australia and the vibrant cities of Sydney and Melbourne, to the brooding spiritual beauty and Aboriginal Dreamtime stories of Ayers Rock or the unrivalled marine life of the Great Barrier Reef, to name just a few, Australia is a world within one country and truly has something for everyone. I enjoyed every second of my dream trip and I would love to help you plan yours! Call me today for ideas and inspiration!

16 August 2017

When I walked through the lobby and stepped out into the bright sunshine at Lion Sands River Lodge, a private game reserve bordering the Kruger National Park, I knew I had arrived at a very special place. It was like stepping onto a very glamourous film set. On the wooden deck stretching ahead of me was a long white linen covered table set for lunch overlooking the dry river bed where at any moment lions, elephants or even leopards might appear. The scene was breathtakingly beautiful of a kind I’d seen in glossy luxury travel brochures. The Lodge itself was stunning and modern. Already I never wanted to leave! We were introduced to David who would be looking after us and after a mouth-wateringly delicious lunch it was time for our first game drive. Anthony our ranger and Kruger our appropriately named tracker became our new best friends for the next few days and we clambered up onto our tiered open top safari vehicle with great anticipation and excitement. Anthony had an encyclopaedic knowledge of all things African bush from the tiniest insect to the mightiest of beasts and Kruger possessed an almost supernatural ability to read seemingly obscure marks in the sand and spot the most expertly camouflaged game at several hundred yards. I found myself craving more information avidly scanning the bush on either side for glimpses of game. I could see how this might become an addiction! Evening game drives included a stop for sundowners and on our first evening we stopped at the wildly romantic Chalkley’s Tree House named after Guy Aubrey Chalkley who once set up his camp in a majestic old Leadwood tree to escape the predators below. On top of the wooden platform was an inviting Four-poster bed with crisp white linen and billowing net curtains along with a selection of drinks and exquisite canapes and panoramic views of the bush in all directions. Honeymooners and other braver souls than I choose to spend the night here alone. Another evening we pulled up in the middle of an airstrip as night fell and tumbled out of the jeep feeling more than a little exposed in the pitch blackness. As we sipped our sundowners a Head ranger and astrologer talked us through the emerging stars using a powerful telescope through which we could see Saturn’s rings and Jupiter. Over the next few days we saw all the Big 5; Elephant, Buffalo, Rhinos, Lions and finally, on our very last morning game drive, the elusive Leopard! A walking safari with our ranger proved unexpectedly eventful when we came across a rhino and had to make a rapid retreat. Memorable moments include feeling dwarfed by incredibly tall elegant giraffes, being surrounded by elephants and enchanted by a baby elephant playing football with a rock directly in front of us and having a courting lion and lioness walking shoulder to shoulder within 2 feet of our Land rover as dusk fell. Our journey took us to Hazyview where we experienced ziplining through the South African bush and a thrilling helicopter trip over the MacMac Falls. We followed the Panorama Route to the historic town of Graskop dating back to 1843 and the gold rush, the gateway to some of South Africa’s most spectacular natural wonders the Three Rondavels, Blyde River Canyon, God’s Window, numerous waterfalls, the Pinnacle and Bourke’s Luck Potholes. At Misty Mountain in Long Tom Pass the panoramic views over the valley below and a hair-raising toboggan run down the mountain left our pulses racing. Finally we rounded off our safari experience at the exclusive Garonga Safari Camp in the 22,000 hectare Makalali Conservancy West of the Kruger National Park where my only regret was not having time to relax in the hand-beaten copper bath in my luxurious Hambleden Suite. Safaris differ considerably from one country to another and your experience is dependent on the time of year you travel. I can create your personal Itinerary to include many different elements to complement your Safari whether it be Cape Town, the Winelands, the Garden Route, the Battlefields of KwaZulu Natal or a stunning white sand beach in Mauritius, Zanzibar or the Maldives. For further advice and to book your personal bespoke safari holiday contact me now - I look forward to hearing from you very soon!

22 October 2014

Sri Lanka makes us think of great cricket, tea, spices, gemstones and its unique Buddhist flag but there is so much more to this beautiful country as I recently discovered. Sri Lanka was renamed in 1972 meaning “Resplendent Island”. Formerly known as Ceylon to the British, the island is also known as the Pearl of the Indian Ocean, India’s Teardrop and numerous other names given by the various civilisations who have played a part in her colourful history. Sri Lanka combines great scenic beauty, a long and fascinating history, diverse colourful culture, delicious cuisine and exotic flora, fauna and birdlife in abundance. Flying Business class meant we could enjoy the exclusive airport Lounge, fast track security, relative comfort and attentive service during the long flight, quality champagne and a flat bed. On arrival in Colombo we were met by our wonderful guide the gentle Ananda and patient good-natured driver/guides Ananda 2 and Prial, before being whisked off to the 4* Jetwing Blue hotel at Negombo for hotel inspections and a delicious dinner in the good company of our local ground handlers. The next morning we had a chance to glimpse Negombo’s vast expanse of beach before setting out to the famous Pinnawela Elephant Orphanage at Rambukkana, located between the modern capital Colombo and the historic ancient capital Kandy. I was thrilled to see herds of healthy happy elephants bathing freely in the Maha Oya River. It was a joy to see these magnificent creatures coming up out of the river en masse and to have some photos with Abi a beautiful baby elephant. We learnt some interesting facts about the elephants and their by-products. We spent so long with the elephants that we arrived at our next hotel in the dark which was a little unnerving as it looked and sounded like we were in the middle of a jungle! The wonderfully named Ulagalla Wallawwa luxury boutique Resort at Anuradhapura is a beautiful former Wallawwa or chieftain’s house surrounded by luxurious modern villas on stilts, each with their own plunge pool. Getting up the next morning at 5am was easy because we had a dawn date with the estate horses Olax and Scotch. It was touching to see the bond that existed between the horses and their cheerful jockeys and we loved riding round the estate taking in the abundant early morning wildlife. After a quick breakfast we sadly took our leave of tranquil Ulagalla heading out for the ancient ruined city of Anuradhapura. To our delight there was a religious festival happening at the temple to the sacred Bo Tree. Musicians and dancers accompanied a long procession of worshippers dressed in white who were carrying a roll of brightly coloured cloth above their heads which was carried up the steps to the temple before being wound around the base of the temple by Buddhist monks. We visited various ruins and learnt more about the ancient city before an unscheduled stop at Habarana to do some elephant riding. It was a privilege to ride a handsome elephant called Sanka around the lake and we saw more wildlife there than at any other time starting with a long snake slithering out of a termite mound just as we set off! Luckily for us Sanka wasn’t phased at all. Our next stop was to see some very contented elephants in their natural habitat on a jeep safari in the Minneriya National Park. Leopards had been spotted earlier that morning. We were not so fortunate but it was exciting searching for them. Our next hotel was the Heritance Kandalama designed by Sri Lanka’s most famous architect Sir Geoffrey Bawa. It is a truly unique hotel blending with the environment in an ecologically friendly way and offering stunning views of Sigiriya Rock and the Kandalama Lake or tank as it is affectionately known locally. Next morning we were up bright and early with some trepidation as we set out to climb Sigiriya Rock known as the 8th Wonder of the World. It is a 180 metre tall granite rock with over 1000 steps and is not for the unfit or faint-hearted. The rock has a fascinating history, there are some very well preserved frescoes en route and the views from the top are breathtaking - quite literally! It was fun and well worth the climb but I felt sorry for King Kasyappa’s men in the 5th century AD who had to build his palace on the summit in searing temperatures. Sigiriya means lion’s throat. At the entrance to the palace was a huge carving of a lion’s head with the entrance through the lion’s mouth, now just the lion's giant paws remain. We were ready for lunch at our next hotel, the bright and welcoming Cinnamon Citadel in Kandy. The cuisine at this hotel is outstanding and there is a glass encased room devoted to the most exquisite desserts. The hotel pool area overlooks the river and boat trips can be arranged. Dambulla is a UNESCO World Heritage site. The Dambulla Cave Temples are impressive containing a 47 foot long reclining Buddha and 150 life size statues of the gods. In the evening we attended a traditional Pooja or religious ceremony at Dalada Maligawa, the famous Temple of the Sacred Tooth, preceded by an enthusiastic performance of Kandyan dancing. The following morning we enjoyed some retail therapy at a gemstone factory followed by dressing up in saris complete with the appropriate bindi on our foreheads, much to the amusement of the shop girls. Our next stay was at Rosyth Estate in Kegalle, off the beaten track in the low country tea plantations. Owners Farzana and Neil welcomed us into their stunning home, a 1920s plantation house, and escorted us around the local tea factory before treating us to a cooking demonstration. Drinks on the verandah and a delicious dinner rounded off a wonderful day. Early next morning Farzana and Neil showed us around their estate with its tea and rubber plantations accompanied by the claxon of the local bread van making its deliveries. It was a fascinating insight into local life as we passed children on their way to school, met the tea pickers and the estate manager. All too soon we were off to Galle, the capital of southern Sri Lanka, to see the famous Lighthouse, the beautiful Dutch church and walk along the Fort ramparts. We stayed at the 5* Fortress luxury resort at Koggala. Housed behind thick walls and imposing huge wooden doors is a colonial style hotel of grand proportions right on the beach. Next morning we called in at a brand new hotel, Cape Weligama, already mentioned in Conde Nast Traveller magazine. The hotel offers secluded lavish villas with plunge pools dotted around a grassy elevated complex overlooking the surrounding surfing beaches. The recently reopened Centara Ceysands was our final stop, lying between the river and golden sands of Bentota beach. We enjoyed the hotel evening entertainment (and provided some of our own!) to round off what had been a fabulous trip. I would love to share my experiences and help to arrange a wonderful trip to Sri Lanka for you so contact me now to find out more.

31 July 2014

When I realised I had missed the deadline for my son’s school trip to Iceland I decided that we would all go. The prospect of experiencing the ‘land of fire and ice’ combined with fulfilling a long held ambition to see the Northern Lights was too tempting! Flying with Iceland Air was a pleasure. The three hour flying time is just long enough to watch a movie. I checked us in online, the plane was new and comfortable and the crew were delightful. My first impression of Reykjavik was how beautiful it is on Faxafloi Bay with the majestic Mount Esja rising in the background, and how uncrowded. The population of Iceland is around 326,000, just over a third of whom live in Reykjavik. The country covers an area of 103,000 square kilometres averaging just three people per kilometre compared to around 240 in the UK. It feels like a quiet Sunday afternoon every day! Reykjavik means “smoky bay” named by the Viking explorer Ingolfur Anarson who saw steam rising from the geysers and geothermal springs which now heat the city’s water. Iceland is a young country. It was formed around 24 million years ago by lava welling up from rifts along the Mid-Atlantic Ridge which separates the North American tectonic plate from the Eurasian Plate in the North Atlantic. The plates are separating at around 2.5cm a year so Iceland is growing! We stayed at the Best Western Reykjavik, a cosy modern hotel a 10 minute walk from the centre of town and a great base for seeing the sights. Harry’s restaurant just along from the hotel is excellent. The Golden Circle comprises Iceland’s most popular sights; the first we saw was the picturesque Gullfoss Waterfall or Golden Falls. My eldest son was not impressed, declaring it “not as good as Victoria” (kids!) so we did a quick photo stop in icy winds. The oldest and most impressive geyser, rather unimaginatively named “Geysir,” doesn’t erupt very often, geologists think it will take an earthquake to stir it from its slumber. Fortunately, smaller “Strokkur” nearby spouts every 15 minutes, it was great fun trying to capture it on camera! The area is surrounded by about 30 pools, some are literally boiling and would burn the skin from your hand. Finally, we travelled to Thingvellir National Park, site of the Althing, Iceland’s first national parliament founded in 930. The plain where the Althing began is also an area of geothermal activity and it is possible to walk along the fissures created by the movement of the tectonic plates. It is an eerie and evocative place. Thousands of Icelandic people gathered here to witness their parliament create laws and hand out punishments. Criminals were hung on the high rocks or drowned. Thingvellir is on the northern shore of Lake Pingvallavatn, the country’s largest natural lake and the Silfra fissure is popular for some unique snorkelling and diving. Hallgrimskirkja Church is the tallest building in Iceland and offers great views across the city. It is named after a famous Icelandic poet, composer and clergyman and its unusual structure took over 30 years to build. The city is compact and easily explored on foot. The National Museum is the best place to learn more about Icelandic folklore, culture and history and we enjoyed the art exhibitions in the National Gallery. Whale watching is another popular attraction. The Red Rock Cinema Volcano Show is an interesting insight into the geology of Iceland. A volcano erupting in Iceland in 1783 caused worldwide devastation and sparked the French Revolution. My sons remembered the disruption to flights in 2010 caused by the eruption of Eyjafjallajökul, thankfully not quite on the same scale. We enjoyed swimming at Laugardalur, a geothermal heated outdoor pool with hot tubs where Icelanders love to socialise. I preferred the Blue Lagoon with its contemporary spa and hot steaming aqua-blue pools where you can smear yourself with silica and mineral mud for silky smooth skin! Our final excursion was in a monster truck in a last-night bid to see the elusive Northern Lights. We could not have timed it better; the clouds cleared and we were treated to a magical experience I will never forget – high on a snowy glacier with the stars sparkling like diamonds in a black velvet sky and the Northern Lights finally strutting their stuff across the skies in a glorious display. I loved Iceland – contact me for more details and how to get the best from your stay!

05 August 2011

We began our luxury trip in style up in the bubble of our Virgin Atlantic aircraft. As we flew into Grenada I felt a thrill of excitement as I caught my first glimpse of the willowy palm trees blowing in the breeze. The white stretch limo to take us to our hotel was an unexpected touch of luxury and set the tone for the trip. Our first hotel was the effortlessly elegant La Source. Mark the manager told us, “it’s your first night in the Caribbean and you’re having dinner on the beach with your toes in the sand!” Dining on the best lobster while sand slipped through my toes and the crashing of the waves in my ears with wonderful company was indeed perfection – True Dat (to coin a much used local phrase!). We were treated to an island tour to discover some of the highlights of this pristine and stunningly beautiful island. Grenada reminds me of Tahiti particularly with the plethora of expensive yachts in the four marinas. Concord Waterfall was beautiful but my favourite place was the River Antoine Rum Distillery for its haunting atmosphere and photogenic crumbling beauty like scenes from a Vogue fashion shoot. Dinner was at global entrepreneur Peter De Savary’s Azzura Castle, referred to locally as “the Yellow Castle”. Some minor royals had recently checked out! We enjoyed some shopping at the Saturday morning market in the capital St George’s and admired the views from the Forts. Grenada has had quite a turbulent past! In the afternoon we set off for a sunset sail on a traditional Grenadian sloop sailing boat. It was a little hair-raising at times but we made it without spilling the rum punch! Another wonderful experience at La Source was the daily included treatment. I enjoyed one of the best massages I have ever experienced. Our next accommodation was Peter de Savary’s Mount Cinnamon, a gorgeous collection of private villas with the most amazing views over Grand Anse beach – one of the Top 10 best beaches in the entire Caribbean! We enjoyed cookery lessons at the lovely and quintessentially English Calabash Hotel, site of the famous Gary Rhodes restaurant, followed by a private visit to the exclusive Calivigny Island off the south west coast of Grenada. This unique island is reputed to have been on Will and Kate’s Shortlist for their honeymoon. It is like stepping into a James Bond Movie from the construction sites where the island is being developed to the sumptuous luxury of the existing mansion and the mega-yacht moored up alongside the fishing cruiser and powerboat. Our return to Calabash that evening was one of our best nights thanks to the wonderful hospitality of owner Leo and manager Clive. The Gary Rhodes restaurant was exceptional and the entertainment so good that everyone was on the dance floor letting their hair down in true Caribbean style! The next morning after several hotel visits and a BBQ lunch we embarked on my favourite experience – sailing on a beautiful yacht! My best memory is mooring off Hog Island and swimming ashore to a little beach frequented by locals and yachties with a private bar and a swing, just perfect for a beach party! To charter a yacht and sail around the Grenadines followed by a week chilling out in Grenada would be hard to top. The fabulous Spice Island Hotel owned by Sir Royston and his wife Betty was our next home and we were welcomed like family. I loved my Beachfront Seagrape suite! What more could you ask for than to step out onto one of the world’s best beaches with your own sunbeds right there and every conceivable comfort at your fingertips? Our last excursion was an exhilarating powerboat ride to a hidden underwater sculpture park. The eerie underwater sculptures are a novelty made all the more special because their whereabouts are only known to a few people and you need a guide to find them. Our last dinner on the island was at Spice Island hosted by Sir Royston and Lady Betty and can only be described as exquisite. We partied late into the night and no one wanted to leave. Grenada is a truly beautiful upmarket destination where the local people genuinely care about their visitors and want you to have a great time. I would go back in a heartbeat. To create your own personal ultimate Caribbean holiday call me today!

11 July 2011

When I was offered the chance to visit Trinidad and Tobago I simply couldn’t refuse. I love the Caribbean and have visited many of the islands. We flew out to Trinidad via St Lucia and took a winding road journey up into the northern Mountain Range to stay at the Asa Wright Nature Centre. Asa Wright is a non-profit making organisation recognised as one of the finest eco-lodges in the world. 125 species of bird have been recorded along with numerous butterflies and mammals. It is a privilege to have stayed there and I would recommend it to anyone with an interest in wildlife. The cuisine is all local and delicious, and the property has a lovely Colonial feel to it. Guests gather around the bar on the veranda in the evenings to swap stories.The rooms are basic but clean and comfortable. In complete contrast, the next morning, we visited the modern shiny Angostura Distillery in Trinidad before going back to nature with a relaxing boat trip on the Caroni Swamp to spot the national emblem the Scarlet Ibis. The night was spent at the Trinidad Hilton which had a welcoming resort-style atmosphere. We were fascinated by accounts of Barack Obama’s visit and past guests such as the late Michael Jackson. Next day, we headed up the North West coast of Trinidad to Maracas Bay, a famous beach popular with locals where we sampled the local dish known as Shark and Bake – delicious! Our time in Trinidad was drawing to an end but we just had time to stop off at the unique Pax Guest House adjacent to the Mount St Benedict Monastery. Famous names such as Sir David Attenborough and Bill Oddie have stayed here. It is like something from a bygone era but utterly charming and comfortable. There are 600 acres of forest boasting over 140 species of bird, 17 species of mammals and countless butterflies, insects and plants. Soon we were on a flight to Tobago. Another unique natural phenomenon awaited us at the lovely Turtle Beach - one of the nesting grounds of the giant leatherback turtle. To my delight we were here at the right time. The main laying season is May to August. It’s possible to ask the hotel to wake you in the middle of the night if there are any sightings. It seemed surreal when I received a loud knock on my bedroom door at around 2.30am but so worth it to see a giant leatherback busy making her nest and some tiny hatchlings. The Island Girl catamaran gave us an opportunity to indulge in some much needed sun bathing and snorkelling. Trinidad and Tobago is excellent for snorkelling and diving. There are over 300 different species of coral including the largest brain coral in the Caribbean, a multitude of fish and not just ship wrecks but also plane wrecks from the First World War! Sunday School is the weekly party in the fishing village of Buccoo. The evening starts with steel pans then to socca, hip hop and R&B lasting into the early hours. During the next few days we visited hotels of various grades. Blue Waters was a personal favourite for its romantic location overlooking Goat Island, with Ian Fleming’s former house looking back at us and the exotically named Bird of Paradise island in the background. The hotel was a haunt of Hollywood stars in the 1940s and 50s. Coco Reef is the closest equivalent to a four-five star hotel on the island confirmed by the presence of a well-known footballer during our stay. We visited an interesting cocoa plantation and had a delicious lobster lunch at Jemma’s Tree House - a must-do! Our final destination was my favourite on the island – the rock star hideaway of Stone Haven Villas. The list of A-list guests is extensive. The villas are luxurious, each with a personal housekeeper and superb views. A four wheel drive excursion enabled us to go into the interior of the island to see tucked away communities where the local school children greeted us with great enthusiasm, much to our delight! Trinidad and Tobago are islands of contrasts – the sprawling mass of the modern city of Trinidad contrasting with the rustic small island feel of Tobago yet both boast an abundance of rich and colourful flora and fauna in the most stunning of settings. The warmth and relaxed attitude of the locals all makes for a heady mix which I can’t wait to return to.

26 April 2011

My trip started well. I love flying and the start of a trip is always so exciting! Flying with Cathay Pacific I nestled into my comfy Business Class pod with my first glass of bubbly and reflected that I was in heaven! My first stop was Hong Kong Island and a new hotel unimaginatively called “L’Hotel” which was in brilliant location opposite the MTR, Hong Kong’s equivalent of the tube only far cleaner and much more enjoyable. It was a couple of years since my last visit so I started off with an island tour. We did a whistle stop visit to Victoria Peak (I recommend the tram), browsed around Stanley Market, took a junk tour round Aberdeen Harbour, home to the famous Jumbo floating restaurant, and enjoyed some great views of Repulse Bay. I decided it was time to explore Hong Kong Island on foot. Equipped with a leaflet on Walking Tours that I’d picked up from the airport I set off to discover shops selling a variety of weird and wonderful ingredients, antiques and art galleries, temples and bars, even gas lights! The next day I fell asleep taking the ferry over to Macau it was such a smooth crossing. I had come to fulfil a long held ambition to do the World’s Highest Bungy off the top of the Macau Tower. In no time at all I was weighed and secured into my harness ready to jump! Having done jumps before, I knew what to expect; the loud music, cheeky guys working the equipment and the clanging of metal as they hooked me up. Suddenly there I was with my toes on the tiny platform edge and the wind in my face, arms outstretched ready to go, squinting in the hazy sunshine over Macau. 5 4 3 2 1 Bungy!!!! I was plummeting downwards and just had time to register that I was upside down with the ground speeding up to meet me before it was over all too quickly! What a rush! Before my return ferry I had time to stroll around some of the fabulous historic buildings of Macau with their strong Portuguese influence and the elegant Senado Square with its black and white cobbles. In a striking contrast Macau is also like a mini Las Vegas with its casinos; all the famous names Venetian, Wynn, Encore, MGM are there with world class entertainment to match. Back in Hong Kong my next hotel was the fabulous 5 star Mira in Kowloon. This hotel is a member of the prestigious Design Hotels group and oozes chic sophistication.It would be equally at home in Downtown LA and attracts the glitterati of Hong Kong. I loved my trendy room with its glass, metal and red Arne Jacobsen Egg chair. There were so many features such as the Bose sound system, mood lighting, marble aromatherapy bath and free WiFi that this was one hotel room I didn’t want to leave except to head down to the gym and Spa – named one of the top 10 Hottest Spas by Conde Nast! I spent a fabulous afternoon there indulging in some luxurious much needed pampering. The Mira is in the heart of TST or Tsimshatsui, the epicentre of Hong Kong’s nightlife, culture and cuisine. It was easy to nip to the Avenue of the Stars to watch the nightly laser show over the harbour before heading out down Nathan Road to find some souvenir bargains in the Night markets. All too soon I was back in my Business class pod heading homewards; sipping Cathay Pacific’s signature cocktails – it had been quite a trip!

14 December 2010

I was absolutely delighted when I got the chance to join the Air New Zealand and New Zealand Tourism “Mega-Fam” trip in March 2006 but little did I realise then just how amazing it was going to be! I can recall the thrill of excitement as our plane touched down in the grey early hours of an overcast Auckland morning. Never mind that we were bleary-eyed and jet-lagged, it was straight on to Queenstown - the self-billed Adventure Capital of the world! No sooner had we checked into our hotel, the beautiful Swiss chalet style St Moritz, than we were transported to the top of the Skyline Gondola cable car overlooking Queenstown before hurtling down the mountain side on the famous Luge toboggans. That was one sure way of waking us up! The views over Lake Wakatipu were just the first of many breathtaking panoramas we were to encounter. In the days that followed we did not stop. The Shotover jet was the best fun; speeding deep into the canyons with the drivers of the Big Red boats skimming the rocky walls and boulders, missing by centimetres and holding up one hand to indicate that they were about to spin the boat through a dramatic 360 °turn as we screamed for more. The most memorable day began with a morning of white water rafting which was great fun, then off to the Kawarau Bridge, site of the original A.J. Hackett bungee. “5-4-3-2-1 Bungee!!!!” and I was plummeting towards the river below and before I knew it bouncing skywards again trying to snatch a breath and take in the fact that I had actually done it and I was still alive....! The sensation was one of euphoria heightened even more by the arrival of a fleet of shiny black helicopters to take us to the top of Coronet Peak overlooking Queenstown for a champagne picnic. I was onboard the first helicopter to touch down on the Peak and as the others flew in noisily it was like a scene from Apocalypse Now meets James Bond. Our next stop was a beautiful vineyard for a wine tasting and later we were helicoptered in to the famous Millbrook Golf and Lifestyle resort. We enjoyed a jet-boat safari on the Dart River through stunning scenery, moved on to Te Anau where we took a boat across the lake to the Glow-worm caves with hundreds of tiny glow-worms lighting an intricate pattern in the pitch blackness, then spent a night on the Milford Mariner in tranquil Milford Sound. I ran out of superlatives to describe the jaw-dropping majesty of the scenery. We journeyed along the Southern Scenic Route to Invercargill stopping off for another helicopter flight onto the Tuatapere Hump Ridge track with its rugged and wild views. Finally, we took a small plane to Stewart Island – New Zealand’s 3rd island. It is remote and beautiful with a big emphasis on wildlife and conservation. Our guide whisked us off in a water taxi to a tiny island called Ulva where we were enthralled by her knowledge and experience of the birds, flora and fauna. In complete contrast our last stop was Auckland, the city of sails, with its thriving waterfront and cultural diversity. I returned to Auckland 6 months later. We were staying in the Sky Tower so within a few hours of arriving I was launching myself off the Skyjump platform 630 feet up and feeling like Superman as I sped down past the office block windows. Spring was in the air, outside the city there were lambs and daffodils everywhere. I loved Rotorua with its bubbling thermal springs and geysers – especially lounging in the hot pools under the stars at the Polynesian Spa! Mount Cook was awesome and we could not have been luckier with the weather – we had brilliant sunshine and got the all clear to land on the Franz Joseph Glacier in a tiny ski-plane. It was surreal. Of course we could not miss out the original bungee site and this time I bungeed backwards. Our last day was spent skiing the Remarkables followed by a tour of Queenstown’s nightlife including literally the coolest bar Minus 5 made out of ice! New Zealand is a truly awesome country with a “Can Do” attitude – my experiences there gave me the confidence to believe that if you really want to do something then you can!

23 November 2010

“It’s another pinch yourself moment!” – I lost track of how many times we said that on my recent trip to Goa and Kerala in what proved to be truly Incredible India. I count myself very privileged to have been able to venture so far off the tourist trail. Our purpose of going to India was to experience “Homestays”. These are privately owned properties whose owners open up their homes to a handful of tourists each year. Guests can interact with the family benefitting from their knowledge and guidance. This type of holiday is perfect for people who love to get under the skin of a destination. It is also very popular with ladies both travelling in small groups or alone because it is so safe and personal. We began our journey in Goa in a beautiful Homestay called Arco Iris. The owners took us all out to Martin’s Corner, reputedly one of the best restaurants in Goa, where the entertainment was provided by an extremely popular karaoke machine! Our hosts’ children adopted me as their new Aunty and a great evening was had by all. After visiting more lovely Homestays in North Goa and the St Francis Church in Panjim, the capital, we had a wonderful night of river cruising and fire-crackers to celebrate Diwali, the local festival of light. Next morning we were off to Cochin, flying via Chennai (Madras) with an unscheduled diversion to Bangalore on account of a cyclone at Chennai! It was then a 6 hour road journey, the like of which I had never experienced, to Munnar. I knew it was going to be tricky when I saw the sign in the bus headlights indicating there were 17 hairpin bends on the first of many mountain roads we were about to climb! The views the next morning from the Ambady Estate were of misty mountains covered in tea plantations all around. We were met by jeeps to go the last leg of our journey up to the Plantations. Then we toured the Tea Factory and the estate before visiting another Homestay based on a Cardamom plantation. There was time for a quick shop in Munnar for spices and souvenirs before going back to our Estate for dinner and a demonstration of unique local Kathakali dancing. It was worth the 4am start to drive up to Gavi Wildlife Reserve for a fun jeep safari tearing off at high speed after we received the message that elephants had been spotted – sadly they had positioned themselves directly under an electricity pylon which totally ruined the effect! Our subsequent afternoon jungle trek brought an encounter with an altogether different type of wildlife in the form of leeches!! Although there are said to be tigers in the park, our Guide had seen 25 in 10 years of working there. We saw many different types of bird, foxes, monkeys, a mongoose and huge butterflies. Our next day was a long one spent eating and travelling to the backwaters leaving us all feeling jaded. But a few of us made time for a quick walk to the local village where we were given a tour of the Temple. Everyone we met wanted us to take their picture but they didn't want anything in return. Night lobster fishing on Lake Vembanad was surreal – sitting in a canoe in the darkness I was just able to make out the silhouettes of the palm trees on the shore against the starlit sky. The eyes of the captured lobsters glowed an eerie red in the torchlight as distant lightning flashed on the horizon. An Ayurvedic massage followed an early start on our final day, then a tranquil cruise around the lake on a beautifully crafted Houseboat. Apart from a few other houseboats and the odd fishermen, we had the huge expanse of the lake to ourselves. It was easy to see why the backwaters of Kerala are known as the Venice of the East. A perfect relaxing end to an eventful trip! The Homestays are a truly unique way to see India at her best away from the usual tourist trail. The hosts can arrange drivers to see the local sights, recommend places to visit, pack a picnic for you, arrange yoga, pilates or massage and generally look after you in a way that would be impossible in a hotel. If you think that this kind of holiday would suit you and would like to know more call me on 0845 058 745!

10 October 2010

When the chance came up to attend the University of California’s specialist Los Angeles Travel Academy I thought twice! It looked like jolly hard work with early morning classroom sessions and afternoons crammed with sightseeing – all in just 5 days. I had passed through LA more times than I could remember and I was curious to see if LA really was the tacky sprawl of a city that I imagined. I had no idea that thanks to a previously unheard of Icelandic volcano this trip was to become so much more than I ever imagined! The first few days were a blur of early classes and reams of facts, figures and information, followed by afternoons and evenings of relentless sightseeing and hotel visits. It was exhausting but fantastic fun and I learnt so much! These are just a few of the places I was lucky enough to experience. Lovely Santa Monica – a windswept Californian beach with a beautiful old pier reminiscent of many a British seaside town. 3rd Street Promenade was a joy; a lovely chilled atmosphere, great shops, eateries, and street entertainers. The famous Venice Beach or home of the crazies as we came to call it! The famous muscle men are there but so too are some rather eccentric colourful locals. A great place to people-watch is Venice Whalers up on the roof terrace basking in the sunshine. Decidedly upmarket Wilshire Boulevard and Rodeo Drive where we popped into Tiffany’s for a spot of jewellery shopping – as you do! The Farmer’s Market is huge with restaurants and stalls galore right next to the exclusive Grove Shopping Mall; both are the haunt of many a famous celebrity. We enjoyed a “Downtown Day” covering Hollywood and Highland, the Walk of Fame, the Kodak Theatre and Grauman’s Chinese Theatre. We literally rubbed shoulders with the A listers – too bad they weren’t real - as we made our way around Madame Tussauds. From there we took the Metro Redline to LA Live, a brand new entertainment complex. The Grammy Museum covers the history of music of all genres. There was some fascinating memorabilia and the chance to sing along and mix your own tracks – in a sound-proof booth! An afternoon at Universal Studios was great fun! The Studio tour is an absolute must-do; you are taken round the back-plots to see where they shoot TV series such as Wisteria Lane and visit sets from famous movies (with a few thrills along the way!). The Getty Center perched on a hillside in the Santa Monica Mountains was a highlight of the trip. What a fascinating place in a beautiful tranquil setting above LA. There were so many exhibitions all we could do was scratch the surface but I can’t wait to go back and wander at leisure. Another highlight was the Huntington Library; diverse collections of art and rare treasures set in 120 acres of stunning botanical gardens. I had never been on a gastronomical tour before but I loved the Melting Pot Food tour of Pasadena! A chance to sample lots of different restaurants in one afternoon – highly recommended! For anyone who likes architecture the Gamble House was fascinating. The house and furnishings were designed by Charles and Henry Greene in 1908. The house is a National Historic landmark. The regal Queen Mary at Long Beach sticks in my memory. I have never experienced such an overwhelming sense of history as I did onboard this truly incredible ship which now doubles as a hotel. I was in awe of her impressive credentials and the many long journeys she undertook packed with troops during the war. Not surprisingly, she is said to be haunted. I’m so glad that I got to spend those extra days in LA! To have some unexpected leisure time and see so many different aspects of this inspiring city was a privilege. There is so much more to it than glitz and glamour – there are many hidden pockets of learning, sophistication and beauty – you just need to know where to look. Thank you volcano – you did this Travel Counsellor a huge favour! If you too would like to sample some of the delights that LA holds give me a call today.... it's all there waiting for you!!!

06 April 2010

Paradise Found! In April 2007 I suddenly developed an overwhelming compulsion to pinch myself several times a day. My dream itinerary had fallen into my lap and it all seemed surreal. Having completed my Tahiti Tourism Specialist training I was on a trip to the stunning South Pacific! We landed at Papeete airport, Tahiti, at night but the big dual carriageway leading away from the airport and the “Chelsea tractors “came as a bit of a shock! Where were the little thatched beach huts and gently swaying palms that I had expected to see? Over the course of the next few days we visited various hotels, each with its own particular view or feature. Everywhere was achingly beautiful and it struck me that standards of living were much higher than I had anticipated. We strolled around the capital Papeete itself; trying to identify the owners of the palatial Super-yachts moored in the harbour, and snapping away with our cameras at the fabulously vibrant indoor market with its multi-coloured fish and vivid flower arrangements. We travelled from one island to another by large passenger ferry, small speedboats, and the super-efficient island hopping planes. Everyone and everything seemed calm, efficient and relaxed. On arriving at the Intercontinental hotel on the island of Moorea I felt I had finally arrived in the real South Pacific! The island of Moorea is green and lush; the Intercontinental hotel is built on a series of lagoons – perfect for lying on your sun deck revelling in the total tranquillity looking up at the volcanic backdrop of the hillside against a deep blue sky. A particular highlight of this trip was getting up close and personal with a very handsome dolphin. There were 4 in residence at the Intercontinental, all free to swim off into the Ocean at any time, but they chose to stay and interact with us! The pristine luxury of Le Taha’a – a private island frequented by many A list celebrities - had quite an impact on us all. I loved my luxurious Overwater bungalow - pure bliss! No wonder Tom Cruise popped in for a few days but decided to extend his holiday and fly his entire family in! We were treated to some spectacular Polynesian Shows and learned about the Polynesian way of life, their dancing, and how they can cook delicious meals underground in a similar fashion to the New Zealand Maoris. We experienced a bone-shaking 4WD drive up to see the big American guns left behind on the island of Bora Bora, followed by a much more civilised Royal Yacht cruise, and a memorable dinner at the infamous Bloody Mary’s Restaurant where one of the features is a series of boards outside listing the many celebrities who have visited. There are some other interesting features too but you will have to book your holiday with me and go find out for yourselves what they are! There is a pervading air of sensuality in the Polynesian ways and culture that makes these islands perfect for honeymooners. The islands are truly spectacular and one of the most beautiful places it has been my pleasure to visit. The warmth and hospitality of the Polynesian people is overwhelming. I am glad that the islands are expensive and not easily accessible. Personally, I hope they stay that way to retain their precious fragile ecosystem and pristine beauty.